Monday, September 19, 2011

Summer 2011... over already??

Summer 2k11 started crap for me, I injured the flexor tendon of my left ring finger... it felt depressing and it was looking grim for me. So after the EYS comp in Edinburgh (which I finished in 2nd place, my best result so far in EYS!), I was forced to a three weeks rest... Luckily the finger gradually got better, so I could take part in a training camp of Slovenia junior climbing team we had in Austria...
it was looking promising... until the finger said no!

Oh yeah forgot to mention it earlier, I am part of the junior team of Slovenia, and it's definitely one of the best things that have happened to me... It's always so much fun with these guys, they're like some of my best friends, and the team and the coaches have given me an excellent opportunity to train and improve in climbing... Also we have been in so many different places together, let it be comps or climbing trips... Certainly a big part of my climbing!

So we spent the first week of my holidays (in late June) in Austria, three vans of super syked people, we climbed on indoor walls as part of training for the EYS and WYC in Imst, also we managed to get a day outdoors! We went climbing in Zillertal and the day ended with the whole team beneath the famous line Total Brutal with all the guys sieging like crazy! At first it looked promising, sadly noone managed to bag the tick in the end!
After returning home the finger injury seemed to be reappearing, it hurt when I was climbing indoors but on rocks it was OK! And we know rock has healing properties... me and my coaches agreed it was time for some rock climbing... yeah man :D
My favourite view (Petite Ceuse seen from the crag).

My father was leaving for France for a bussines trip and I seized the opportunity and got him to drop me off in Gap. What followed was the most amazing two weeks ever! I stayed alone in the Ceuse camping, but needless to say I was never bored! It's one of my favourite places to be, the campground is full of climbers from everywhere, and the cliff above is just amazing. The daily routine was get up late, have a cuppa with the British lads (Sam, Ed, Luke, Ethan, Ted, Kitty... big ups crew!), make the torturing walk-in and climb until dark! I managed some good ascents, the highlights in terms of grades were L'ami de tout le monde and Le chirurgien du crepuscule, both 8b on redpoint, and an onsight ascent of Encore, 8a+ (the endurance testpiece... pumpy motherbitch!). Along with many other five star lines! I love the climbing in Ceuse as every route is just so perfect!
Le chirurgien du crepuscule, 8b (photo by Robbie Phillips)... an amazing line to tick! Team send with Luke :)

photo from last year's trip to Ceuse... man I love this place!
Besides the British I made friends with so many other people, first off thanks to Robbie and Nat and other Scots for picking me up in Gap (and the pictures as well!), there was a whole gang of crazy French guys (Augustin, Thomas, Alban, Francois, Julien, Rodrigue, Enzo the mutant et beaucoup des autres!), some Belgians (Seb, Mathilde, Pascal... thank you for a nice evening :D), I even got invited over for a dinner with the Irish climbers who were staying at the gite! That was a nice evening! There were many others, the Canadians Julien, Yannick, Corinne (those pancakes in the morning... ahh!!), the German speaking Italians (don't recall the names)... Surely I forgot some others, sorry about that! Fact is, all of you guys made me feel like at home! Big ups!
with the crew in Gap on a rainy day!

After 14 days in Ceuse I moved to Briancon (thanks to Uroš and Mojca!) to meet a part of the junior team who came to compete in the French national cup. Needless to say, they kicked asses, winning three gold medals (Milan, Tina and Jera)... on French home turf! Nice :D! We stayed in the area for a week, doing some climbing in smaller crags in the valley and cheering for the senior team who did the World Cup a few days later (amazing performance by Maja & Mina who came first and second! Strong ladies!).
We wrapped it up in style with a good party after the World Cup final and I got home on the 31st of July. Possible best three weeks ever?
back to plastic! Photo by Luka Fonda


In August I tried to focus on indoor training, there were two comps in Imst coming up. I finished both the EYS and WYC in a slightly disappointing 16th place, I was hoping to make at least the finals in both comps! I guess I just wasn't fit enough. The rest of the team made up for it, the highlight was obviously Jure Razresen and Domen Škofic becoming world youth champions. RESPECT guys! The whole world youth championship was just amazing! Slovenia Junior Climbing team proved once again to be one of the best teams ever! The team spirit is sooo good!
best team ever!

After returning home from Austria on 28th of August, the summer wasn't over yet! I took the chance to make a short, 4-day trip to Magic Wood with a part of the junior team. It was meant to be like some sort of training for the two EYS bouldering comps that have just been on, and although I wasn't selected for the bouldering team, I could still come along. Thanks coaches :)

So we spent 4 days running around the woods bouldering like crazy, I got a bit unlucky and fell over on wet ground which resulted in a bad, 2+ meter fall on my back... It hurt really bad, but it's OK now, so no broken bones! It did feel like it at the start though -.- The whole team managed some amazing ascents, up to 8A! Myself, I was happy with ticking two 7Cs with a badly sore back! Never really been a boulderer anyway :D I do enjoy it though!
Jure Raztresen wrestling the Kalorienmonster!
 After this trip it was time to wrap it up! I am now in my last year of school and I am firmly decided on finishing high school with excellent grades! School has always been important to me, but I've always found ways to do it along with going climbing, and I want to keep it that way! So now it's back to the gym for me, back to the daily routine, hoping to get an odd day going rock climbing here and there...
It has really been one amazing summer :)

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