Monday, October 31, 2011

Between the blocks

Hey everybody!
A few days have passed since the last post and we have made a couple of good days and cool ascents! Besides the climbing the trip has been just as great so far, we recently moved to a different house which is in Larchant, a small village only minutes away from sectors such as L'elephant and Dame Joane! Sweet! The owner of the house is a climber himself but we haven't had the chance to meet him as he's away on a trip. Even so he lets other climbers stay at the place which I find amazingly cool. There's people gathering every day, we've made lots of new friends and we have had a couple of nice evenings with watching the World Cup in Valence (congrats to the guys from the junior team for all the semis!), sharing experiences, discussing betas and boulders... And in the morning we go climbing!

Day number 3 we warmed up in Bas Cuvier (I got spanked on Joker, the classic 7a!), we tried Aerodynamite (got spanked as well) and then we moved to Cuvier rempart to try the classics such as Big Boss, Fourmis Rouges (both 7c) and some others which are said to be some of the best blocs in the forest. We gave up pretty quickly but then we went to work Noir Desir, also 7c and me and Gregor came really close to sending it! I fell off the last move twice :( It's a crazy boulder and we shot a video of me almost doing it (but I can't upload it now).
We spent day number four in L'elephant. I was quite non-syked because of the rain earlier in the day, most of the boulders were wet so I spent most of it just scrambling around wondering at the crazy shapes. I discovered a sick looking labirynth atop the hill... one could really get lost in there!

Day number five we went to Manoury, I managed to send a typical Font-style sloper wrestling 7c called Bagheera, and I am pretty syked on that. Vezi came off at the last move... damn. He's been doing 7a's and 7b's that I can't do with ease, yet he still hasn't sent a 7c... you'll get it mate!

And today we went to Buthiers.I flashed a 7b in a roof called Magic Bus, Vezi got it second go. Then we tried a famous 7a called Attention Chef d'oeuvre. It's a really technical wall and none of us could do it... it seems the specific Fontainebleau style shows especially in the slabs and vertical wall problems. If the problem is in an overhang, the grade immediately jumps into the 7th degree. This is the clash between the old school Bleausards and new wave gym climbers...

The forecast for tomorrow is comme si-comme ca so we are yet unsure of what we'll do. I could well use a rest day after all... we've been climbing non-stop for six days and I can feel it damn well :)
No photos yet, I admit I had left the cable for my camera at home... stupid.

A shout-out to the French crew; Augustin, Jarno, Morgan, Sonia, Pierre, Benoit, Christophe and the other Christoph, another Pierre and all the others who stayed at Larchant... Merci pour tous!
Until the next post, PEACE

p.s. if you are hungry for Font, check out these guys... we've climbed together the last few days
http://vimeo.com/user3680502
http://vimeo.com/user2732317

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