Monday, October 24, 2011

Return of the cave people

Hey everybody!
Can't get too long in this post right now, I'm really busy packing up for tomorrow's trip although I have so much to say! Again we spent the weekend in Osp and Mišja Peč and we did some remarkable ascents! On Saturday I took the train to Ljubljana not exactly sure how I will get to Osp, but just then mr. Hribar called up and offered me and Izidor a ride! And I was like... fuck yeah! The Latin saying is Fortes fortuna adiuvat... it proved true once again. When in doubt, just go dude!

He was even kind enough to not let us pay our share of the gas, so I have to thank him at this point. So we got to Osp, Izi did a few tries in Halupca (the 9a he's trying) and then we moved to Mišja Peč. Not really sure about what I should get on, I decided to try Millenium, a line I tried last year and which felt freakin desperate back then. It takes on the huge overhang in the right part of the crag and the meat of the route comprises of about 15 moves on crimps and edges. The moves are huge but pretty straightforward, and it's all about having enough juice and power (power endurance, sort of) to lock off on each of the holds. Graded 8b+.
Much to my surprise, this time the moves felt A LOT easier and I was linking big sections of the route. When I came down, I knew it could go, even that same day... I got psyched up and came really close on second try, but messed up while clipping a draw. I decided to have another go despite being a little tired, and this time I got all the moves perfectly... SWEET! It felt like a monster route just a year ago, and now? I did it in 5th go altogether! Feeling syked about that!
I just stumbled upon this photo... it's Luka Zazvonil in Millenium (the first ascensionist himself!) photo by Urban Golob, http://www.ipak.org/golob/index.html

Me and Izi spent the night in the cave of Osp, we rolled out our sleeping bags and just crashed into the sand, I was feeling wrecked from the climbing and the lack of sleep during the last few days...

On Sunday it was not my turn for the sending, though. Early in the morning, my friend Vezi arrived to the cave and made quick work of Revolucija, that 8c we'd been going at. Great work mate! He flowed through it as if it was somewhere about 6b or something! Again we moved to Mišja Peč, where I tried Karizma (8b+), another kickass line I'd tried before and was hoping to feel stronger this time. But... it still felt just as desperate as it used to :( we did find some new beta, though, so I am feeling confident it would go on our next visit (which will be in like... uh... a few weeks time hopefully? the schedule for November is absolutely jam-packed!).
BREAKING NEWS:
At this point I have to point out my good friend David Firnenburg, who came to Osp for a week of Slovenia's finest rock all the way from Germany, made an ascent of Vizija, an 8c just next to Karizma. Now the bad news is his younger brother Ruben tried it just after him and managed to break off a key hold of the crux! We are not sure yet of whether it makes the grade any harder as Ruben has managed to stick that move even after the break, but he looked somewhat sceptical afterwards... oh well, things break! And hats off to David!


Another big news that day was Julija Kruder (Jernej's youngest sister) made a FLASH ascent of Active Discharge (8a)! WOW, big respect for that!
Other than that it was a regular amazing day in Mišja Peč... Loads of people, mostly friends, who made the day turn out really well... Vezi, Kruder, Izi, Zorko, Gorazd (good work on that 8b!) and Anja, Klemen&Tanja, Matic Obid, David and Ruben and surely I forgot some others! Thanks to all for coming along! Thanks to David and Ruben's parents for having us over on a dinner! And Gorazd for getting me a ride back home!

Now the next thing which is completely occupying my mind right now is the fact that I'm leaving for France tomorrow. I am leaving the rope at home because it's time for FONTAINEBLEAU!!! Amazingly psyched! I will try to keep this place updated with some photos&stuff... Watch this space! I should be back by November the 3rd... but don't go looking for me if I'm not!

Peace out y'all!! See you out on the rocks! It's a shame I don't have any much pictures this time, I will make sure that doesn't happen often!

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