Sunday, October 2, 2011

Revolution is the solution

Hey!
It's been another intense weekend! I've spent the Saturday in Vipavska Bela where I quickly managed to send a rather short, power-endurance route called Cerko, rating at 8b. Not bad! The main goal of the day was Povodni mož, the route I got on last weekend... It proved too hard when I tried it in the evening as I was seemingly getting a bit fatigued, so we should be making a return visit soon! I went climbing with two of my friends from Ljubljana, Klemen Kejžar (providing the pictures! thanks man!) and Žiga Debevec. Žiga is working on Cerko which is possibly to become his first of the grade, and Klemen was getting at Povodni mož like me.
Getting hot in Cerko

Povdoni mož, THE line
 cool shot :D

At the end of the day we met Urh and Šeli bouldering in the riverbed, so we hung out a bit and did some bouldering as well! They took us over to their residence, 8House, and Šeli even gave us some grapes! It's always nice to talk to these guys, they have a cool attitude towards climbing and everything, along with the fact that they're some of the pioneers of bouldering in Slovenia!
I should point out (for my pleasure only :P) that I did make some progress in Povodni mož! I actually stuck the crux move on a redpoint try, only to mess up my feet afterwards! Damn! It's an amazing route though, really cool moves and athletic climbing!

Today, me, Urban and Ajda, two of my teammates, did a little trip to Osp. We chose to climb in the lower sector, the "cave". Previously I have only done some multipitches in this sector (there's a big wall stretching out above the roof part), and I have seen and heard of the amazing single pitch routes the cave has to offer.

The place is really stunning, actually. An overhang of epic proportions covered in a forest of tufas provides amazing, seriously long (up to 60 metres) endurance routes. The grades start at about 7c, so it's really a hardcore crag! Each route gurantees buckets of sweat and an awful, harmful lot of lactic acid.
We quickly got into bussines, Urban managed to onsight Troja, 8a+ and tried Bitka s stalaktiti, 8b but got really unlucky and broke off a tufa, and consequently fell! Myself, I got on the first part of Active Discharge (8a) and also had some bad karma, I missed two obvious crimps at the crux and came off like a real punter! I got on it again and literally pissed it! Still doesn't make the tick though! I got unlucky in Troja as well, I think it was a combination of the yesterday's fatigue and sore feet/hands :(. Ajda came closer on her project, Trojanski konj (7c/c+?).

endless tufas... not really familiar with the style!
In the end, despite being tired and sort of lacking motivation, I decided to check out Revolucija (8c). It is a mindblowing route which takes on the lower end of the roof and consists of about 30 metres of athletic climbing on weird shaped tufas, with a lot of toehooks, heelhooks, knee-bars and what not. It is definitely amazing and I am super syked to get on it again soon! It would really make an amazing tick! Credits to Matej Sova for putting up such a monster route! He is currently working on the extension to this route, which should, according to his words, make up for a 9a+! Well take a 30 meter super-steep power-endurance 8c and add it up to another 25 metres of hardcore pulling on tufas... I have no doubt about it :D

We decided to end the day with a swim in the sea. It was really nice, I haven't been to the seaside for a while and it was cool to take a swim! Ajda bought us both ice-cream :P


it seems today we only took pics of me climbing... so i'm sharing this one too :) ILEGALCA VOL. 2
I am definitely crashing in the bed right now, I am thouroughly worked! The upcoming weeks are looking promising in terms of climbing and social life as well :D A shout-out to my brother who was brave enough to leave the warmth of his home to leave overseas for his final year of studies! BIG UPS BRO! hope you're reading this

and some tunes to finish off a long day :)

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