Sunday, October 9, 2011

Top-roping bigwalls

Hello people!
I have just spent two days out, again it was in the cave of Osp and like always some interesting stuff happened!
We headed down on Friday right after I finished school, it was me, Gregor Vezonik and Klemen Kejžar. Friday saw the real end of summer, before the temperatures were still pretty high and it was nice and warm, but then... I was sitting in the classroom, staring through the window and wondering whether we are crazy or not. Outside world looked cold and wet and it didn't look too good. Still we agreed to go, I love how some friends never bail out on you! When we came to Osp it was still raining in buckets, so we sat in a cafe for another hour. The rain still didn't seem to be stopping, so we figured we should go anyway. We made it to the cave only slightly wet. We were the only people out in the whole world at that time I guess... It was freaking cold and it didn't feel like going climbing :D

But once you start climbing it all goes fine :) I warmed up by doing Active Discharge, it felt a million times easier than last time, I guess I must have been pretty well tired back then :). I went for a try in Revolucija, this time it felt a lot better, I made all the moves easily and made good links, found new beta... The psyche level shot up into the skies! Suddenly it felt very doable!
The main reason why we decided to go down to Osp on Friday already, though, was to work on this route called Magična Goba (The Magic Mushroom :D).

Now what is this all about; on Saturday the 14. Memorial in memory of Janez Jeglič - Johan was on. This meeting is held in Osp or Mišja Peč every year by his friends, notably a climbing legend himself Silvo Karo.

Janez Jeglič was a big alpinist and a good rock climber who got killed in the Himalaya in 1987. He was a member of several successful expeditions to Patagonia and Himalaya, also ascended Mount Everest and so on.

In his memory, the best slovenian rock climbers gather each year to compete in a very relaxed and friendly way. The last years, the challenge is doing the multipitch route Magična Goba (hardest pitch is an easy 7c) on a big toprope in the shortest time. It means 90 (5 pitches linked together in one shot) metres of pure endurance climbing on a steep wall full of tufas. It's not that hard to climb, when you break it down into smaller sections, the climbing is mainly jugs and good feet... but everything stacks up for an amazing amount of pump! The record stands at about 7 minutes and a half, set by Klemen Bečan a few years ago... Feels impossible when I think of it! I managed the route in 12 minutes and 39 seconds this year, improving last year's result by a minute. I ended up third :)

The climbers... from left to right: Matej Sova (1st), Anže Štremfelj (2nd), me (3rd), Izidor Zupan, Luka Zazvonil, Matic Obid, Gregor Vezonik, Klemen Kejžar, Jernej Kruder).
Maybe just a word about the route itself, it's a very famous route in the big wall of Osp. It became famous when it was first ascended free in 1986 by Tadej Slabe and Srečo Rehberger, the people who pushed limits at that time, even by the world's standards! The first free ascent was broadcasted live on national television and was a big show with cameras and all... It was regarded as a big breakthrough and the FAists themselves said it changed their perspective on what could be done in the future... Clmbing has really evolved since then. 14 years later, I easily did the route, onsighting all the pitches.

The day was a lot of fun, after the comp we hung out in the cave, there was a lot of people and the usual crew :) Happy birthday, Luka! I made another two tries in Revolucija, and got really far in the second one even despite being tired (did Goba twice before, and a try in Revolucija). I think two moves more and I would be through the whole crux, and then it's only resistance to the top! And a lot of tufa riding :/ kinda don't like it! I'm sure I would have done it yesterday if I hadn't climbed Goba before.

Vezi got really hot on Revolucija too, and he decide to stay in Osp today (Sunday) to try and finish it off. Go get it, man! VENGA! I bailed home in a real pussy way... bad thing!

A big thanks to Klemen Kejžar and Lučka Franko for getting us a ride, thanks to Silvo Karo for putting together this nice meeting and letting us stay at his place. A shout-out to my teammates Domen Škofic and Jure Raztresen who are currently in the USA and made it to the semifinals of the World Cup! Good luck to the whole Slovenian team! Strong guys!
And last but not least a shout out to all the climbers who made it out yesterday... This is what it's all about!

8c is on the horizon again! VERY psyched to go back and tick this badass line! See you at the wall everyone!

1 comment:

  1. Leta 1987 je Jeglič plezal v Cerro Torre, ubil se je pa l. 1997 na Nuptseju