It's been a hell of a weekend! The Kranj World Cup went down in style, like always! And I had a blast of a day in Mišja Peč on Sunday!
It started out looking shit, though. I had to get up early for school on Saturday (!), and after a night out this is not really my cup of tea! This also meant any rock climbing was screwed that day. So I spent the day doing some schoolwork and then going to Kranj to watch the semis of the World Cup.
The comp was huge. 8 of the people on our team were in the semis and we were all there to support them. It's nice to see how different people are the strongest each year, the levels of power are constantly shifting (I think) as it's probably hard to be on top of your game all the time. Only a few are strong enough to be making the finals constantly... and luckily it is so, as this makes room for some others!
|Hats off to the man! photo by Stanko Gruden|
Urban Primožič is my good friend whom I have known since I was a kid, and all the time we'd been climbing together, going on trips, spending time training in the gym at Poden... Not only he's strong as a climber, he's one of the coolest people to hang out with and an unstoppable source of positive vibes! I know this sounds cheesey but credit should be paid where it's due! The recent years he's been really committed to training and I cannot say how happy I am that it's all paid off!
In Kranj, he was a freaking beast.
The semis turned out to be quite successful for our team, with Mina in first place and Maja also in the final, and Urban just making it to the finals, thus providing a Slovenian in the male category as well! Sadly the other four guys got stuck in the semis!
Next day, I went to Mišja Peč with some of my friends, Luke and Ed from Great Britain, the amazing crew from Ceuse, and also David Firnenburg from Germany and Franz Krakenberger from Switzerland! We were sort of an international crew :D
It turned out really well, there was loads of people in Mišja Peč (a bit too crowded, but still ok), lots of strong competitors (Edu Marin and Ramon Julian, the Spanish machines have both done Millenium, 8b+ onsight... crazy!!), above all the weather was ace!! Sunshine without a spot of clouds, while back at home it's been misty, foggy and freezing cold for weeks now. I've been telling the British guys to come over to Mišja Peč and I think they really liked it! Ed and Franz did Marjetica, 8b/b+ and Sonce v očeh, 8a+.
I had a go in Karizma, but I felt really weak so I figured I might try something (only slightly) easier. I chose Pikova dama, 8b, a true king line in the middle of the crag, tha I've tried before so I knew the moves.
To cut a long story short, "The goal is the journey" sums up my climbing that day! I've fought through up to the very last move, which I admit is one of the cruxes, but I always figured I would grit my teeth and pull through when I get there. Well, I didn't. I was a lamb instead of being a lion. It involves locking off on a really, really small crimp and then doing a slightly dynamic move to reach a small jug right at the anchor. A real heartbreaker! Nonetheless, the route is so awesome I will enjoy trying it again!
|the wall before the final|
After this try it was time to pack up if we were to see the finals.
They were an amazing show, but the highlight for me was Urban taking fifth place among a real strong competition! So fucking strong!
According to the man himself (now I hope I got this right): "All the nervousness was gone when I was at the observation and later in the route. There's no thing that would boost your ego more than the whole crowd cheering crazy for you. This was my best comp ever!"
And also, Sean McColl has won his first World Cup. I felt like he really deserved it, I know the guy only slightly, but he is a really cool dude and a very all-round climber (which I think is what everyone should seek to achieve), and also seems to have a very cool approach to climbing. He has this amazing site, too.
Next weekend it's my time to shine (hopefully :P). It's the last stage of EYS in Kranj. It will be a fun time, all the friends are coming again and what not. And I am going to rip it.