Thursday, December 29, 2011

Siuranian classics vol. 1

Hey everyone!
Today was a day of redemption for me! Migranya was a route I had first tried last December, and I came really close to sending on second go. I came back in March with the youth team, hoping to send it easily because I'd thought I got stronger... turns out this was not the case, so I was psyched to get it at last! It's a classic 8b, taking on a huge overhang in the L'Olla sector, left  of the enourmous walls of El Pati. It's a five star line with two distinct cruxes and sick climbing! 
One of the easier routes of El Pati and another unmissable line is Zona 0. Also 8b, it's a more endurancey line on more vertical terrain, and it was the other challenge today (I came really close to sending on Monday). Today climbing it was pure joy, a real a muerte fight in raging wind. I felt really strong, but even so I managed the top crux only barely. It all felt like in some sort of slow-motion, I was about to lose the key two-finger pocket, and I saw my middle finger almost coming off, yet latching back at last. I was determined not to let go!
Ticking off the two classic 8bs of Siurana was an amazing feeling, especially since I've come really close before, but then screwed up... like some sort of vengeance :) All in all it was simply  another brilliant day we've been having last week, with a spotless sunshine and many friends hanging around... Izi also finished his mini-epic in Zona 0 with style, and there was some other hard stuff going down... Alex did Migranya profunda, 8b+ (Gregor is still working on it). Kalea Borroka is the next line we've sighted, so expect some sendage in the next days :)

Yesterday we spent a nice day as well, we went to check out Monsant, an area close to Siurana. Everytime coming to Siurana I'd been looking at the enormous rock barrier above the village of Cornudella... el Raco de Missa is the sector with the hardest lines; the climbing is similar to Margalef (many pockets which can be very sharp!), the big overhang was a real killer and we were getting pumped badly. It's mainly just about endless pulling on pockets with each move similar to the previous. 
Even so, we grabbed some nice send, the highlight was Domen Škofic onsighting Hidrophobia (8b or 8b+?)! Such a beast! Urbič managed an 8a+ onsight (one that I found badly desperate), myself and Izi got up to 8a! Oh and yea today's news is Mina Markovič also crushed Hidrophobia onsight! Amazing!
The crag itself is class, amazing ambiance! Some photos:

 Only a few days left! Still so many things to do! Thanks for reading everyone, good luck with your projects, whatever it may be! VENGA


  1. oh man.. iam sitting right now in the cold germany, wath a shame man.. great pictures , i wish i would be there . happy new jear !!!