Thursday, December 8, 2011

Year 2011

I've been keeping track of all my rock climbing I do in a book that's become very dear to me, so here's the facts from 2011 (including the pre-NYE days in Siurana :D):
-I have spent 73 days out rock climbing. Wow.
-I've visited 28 different areas, from Siurana, Oliana and other Spanish pump-fest monster crags to the mecca of bouldering, Fontainebleau (what a trip!), Magic Wood, a couple of smaller crags in Slovenia that I haven't been to before (Ter, Vipavska Bela, Bohinjska Bela), local crags (Zminec :D)... diversity of styles is the source of psyche
-I've done 40 routes in the 8th grade; 15 8a's (7 of which onsight), 10 8a+'s (3 of which onsight), 9 8b's, 5 8b+'s and the one 8c. On grades: Daniel Woods summed it up: "Rock and grades will never corelate"
-spent almost three months somewhere out of Slovenia! I love this! Just stay away from home as much as possible! Everytime it's nice to return, but in a few days you're back in the routine and this kills!




MY PICKS (la creme):
-Le poinconneur des lilas, 8a+ in Ceuse. My favourite out of ALL crazy technical, crimpy vertical pitches in Demi Lune. Wins just ahead of La femme blanche, another massive pitch.

-Kaj ti je, deklica?, 8b+ in Mišja Peč. A long standing project finally drawn to a close deserves an honour! One of the best lines ever. Took quite a few tries, but I never really cared as it was always fun. The send day might have the best day in 2011? Pure joy it was. Slightly emotional! Nah, I'm joking :D

-Siouxie, 7c+ in Siurana. Did it onsight after only a couple of days of climbing after the break, 100% my style and the kind of climbing I love, technical, monos, varied, perfect rock....

-Revolucija, 8c in Osp. Well of course you might say! I think the biggest battle in a while! And a great day out in general! Pretty hard as well!

-Siddharta, 8a+ in Baratro. One of the few natural lines in an otherwise cool crag, did it just after I started climbing again after the finger injury! Regained psyche! A nice evening followed :P (21.6.2011)

-Jon Pascal, 7b in Zminec. Back to the old school, back to the roots! Took me 4 tries, it's an inhanging slab. Doesn't let you breathe. Was very happy to send! Not quite my style.

-Beaute de chine, 8a+ in Tournoux. Amazingly exposed crag and a very cool route. Had a great day with the youth team and then saw the finals of the World Cup in Briancon where Mina and Maja took the first two places, and fnished off the France summer trip with a sick party. What else?

-Bagheera, 7C in Fontainebleau. Perfect line, 100% Font style. Just hard enough to provide slopers you can barely call holds and at the same time easy enough for me to send. Perfect days.

There's been so many others! I love looking back at all those routes. So psyched for Spain!

THE NEMESES (What should have got sent - and will eventually):
-Pikova dama, 8b in Mišja Peč. Ughhh I will say no more.
-La peste nera, 8b+ in Baratro. Same story as above, fell off the last move multiple times. Pussy style.
-Migranya. Psyched to kill it on the first day in Siurana!
-Povodni mož, 8b+
-Karizma, 8b+, the project remains. Grossly hard for the grade, for me.
-Noir Desir, 7C. When do we return to Font???
an Osp sunset

working... sadež :D

Ceuse times!

welcome to the hood :D

Luke diving into the blue

lost in Ceuse


 
 fucking ridiculous clip :D makes me crack up everytime i see it :D
 Thanks for reading people! Much love! Too much time with no climbing ->longer posts on the blog :) good or bad? Anyway, till next time

1 comment:

  1. nice work, I wish you the best in the future, with little as possible injuries and god friction.
    Glavno da se clajmba! ;)

    ReplyDelete