Sunday, April 8, 2012

Easter egg hunt in Mišja Peč

Yo people,
I was out in Mišja Peč yesterday, I've done a couple of routes and thought I should write a post! Also, my sister, I think she might actually be getting keen on some rock climbing again!
When we were warming up, I got her on this superb 7a called Jumbo which we both really enjoyed and she almost did it. Afterwards, I had a warm up go on Tekila, an 8a I tried a few weeks ago but messed up the crux, but didn't really care. I was saving my power for the goal - Nočna kronika, an awesome 8b in the center part of Mišja with a quite bouldery crux (actually, two cruxes and a rest between). This time, I fired it off first go, which was fourth in total. Not bad! Since I was feeling strong, I thought maybe today was the the day to finally do Pikova dama, another majestic 8b that has resisted my attempts for some time now (I will not even say how it's become just a question of luck and mental war - I could have easily sent it earlier). I climbed up to the final move with little trouble, but kinda pumped out - the top is a real heartbreaker, for me the definite crux, it involves some super small crimps on a very exposed slab.
I didn't really care though - I suppose I'll get it when the planets align or whatever :)

We still had some time left, so I tried Caffe Expresso, an 8a+ just left of Nočna Kronika with a really hard, intense start (maybe the first ten metres or so) which is followed by an easygoing line of jugs up to the top. I quickly came off in the first try, but I did check out the moves and all, then took a bit of rest. After some time, I focused up, went mad and crushed it!
I'm pretty psyched about yesterday - besides the sends, we had a fun day. There was a lot of people (haven't seen the place so crowded in some time), a lot of friends and perfect conditions for climbing, it was cloudy with a bit of wind, not cold though.

The lame thing though is the parking issue the villagers of Osp sparked up. The usual parking spot in Mišja Peč is now closed due to the locals angry with people who are illegaly camping around the crag. I hope this will soon get settled, myself I'm unhappy with the parking becoming closed but I understand the dissatisfaction, I actually find the situation bad as well. The people camping below the crag and in the parking are leaving thrash and toilet paper around the place and it's really uncool.

So, we have to keep this mind: take the thrash with you and respect the local ethics of climbing and access. Rock is finite, let's keep access infinite!

Peace out to y'all, thanks to Matic Obid for the tape, big ups to Vezi&Škofla, we'll be back :)

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