Friday, April 6, 2012

Ondra storms Slovenia

Adam Ondra has done it again! Yet another time, the climbing world has been left in awe admiring the climbing of who is (I think this is quite fair to say) the best sport climber in the world!
Yesterday, Ondra was the main star of the sixth International Mountain Film Festival Domžale and the slovenian climbing scene flocked to see the new feature-length film (starring Adam Ondra alone) and listen to his lecture. What we saw was a true testament to the progression of sport climbing and the embodiment of dedication, total comittment and unstoppable hard work (of course coupled with amazing talent).

First off, the film (The Wizard's Apprentice) is awesome. I don't think it would be appeal to a non-climber, but such is the case of almost any climbing movie. For anybody who's had a few days of rock climbing, it's almost a must-see. It will definitely open your eyes to how much has been done in the last ten years, where Adam Ondra has taken our sport and how far away from the actual limit (if there is any) we might be. Just consider that Adam Ondra has had an almost linear curve of progression ever since he started climbing, and he doesn't seem to be slowing down, either. Not that he would like to, anyway. This guy breathes, speaks, lives climbing.

 He's unstoppable. And the way he looks at his own climbing and improving should be a big point to consider for all of us, mere mortals. He's never looking for excuses, inflated grades, easy ticks, peer acclaim... Brave and humble has become the synoym, but in Ondra's case you will see it is completely justified. What drives Adam Ondra is simply the will to go harder, bigger, further.
All of this became obvious in the lecture he gave after the screening of the movie. His show was not the best I'd seen though, I guess he hasn't done much of it yet - well, in no way I'm going to say that he should stick to the climbing alone! It's just that for those who follow climbing news websites, a lot of what he said was not new, or revealing. I was kinda hoping he would clear up some other things, there's a lot of stuff he could go about, not only showing us his hardest ascents (well, some of them - he has a big selection to choose from). I suppose he's not so much of a showman as some other people are, but hey - do you need that if you're already known for being the best? I think the best moment of the lecture was actually at the start, when he came up to the stage said hello, told us he'd been to Kotečnik and that he'd onsighted Iluzija, 8c. You can tell people were left speechless.
 That's a bit like Jerry Moffat onsighting the hardest french routes, or winning a game of chess versus Garry Kasparov in three moves.

In any case, it was very good having Adam Ondra in Slovenia again (note that he's probably the guy with most hard ascents in our crags), it was most inspirational and psyching, one simply cannot believe how good at climbing he is. I mean, it's like, you know that he's super good, and every couple of weeks you hear of another 8c+ onsight he'd done, but hearing all that packed in 3 hours along with some superb footage in the movie... yeah... AMAZING.

Go watch the movie people, you will not regret. And get off your bum and go TRAINING! There's so much of room for improvement still left in everyone of us. Your hardest redpoint grade is just a number, nothing else. Go out there and rip it!

Meanwhile, to me the best vid of AO on the net. MUST SEE!

BD athlete Adam Ondra onsights Mind Control (8c+), Oliana, Spain from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

It's looking promising for some rocks this weekend, LET'S GO!

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