Sunday, June 10, 2012

News from planet Pinti

Almost done with exams! It is due to these that it's been a month since I last posted here, but actually nothing worth mentioning happened either - at least in terms of climbing. I finished high school and I'm now taking the matura exam which represents an end to the pre-uni education, may have an impact on which school you can go to afterwards and supposedly marks your entry into adulthood (well, not sure if I can relate to that).

I invested quite some effort in getting all the knowledge into my brain curves, but I think it will pay off - I'm pleased with how it has gone so far. I don't want to play a smartass here, but it would be cool to see I did well. I'll let you know how it was.

Another important step for me was obtaining the driving license. After failing the first one, I was quite nervous before I took the test second time. I don't think I've ever been that nervous in a climbing competition! Anyway, I somehow managed to pass it alright without killing anyone and now I'm legally allowed to drive. Yay!
Having done it, I was relieved greatly - it's not that I'd be desperate to be allowed to drive, the lessons and all were getting boring and time-consuming (and it's expensive as well). But it's pretty awesome anyway ^^
MANY thanks to Roman for the pictures!!

So obviously, we had to put theory to practice. Last Saturday, we (me, Urban, Roman and Maja Vidmar) did a quick commando mission into the heart of Primorska land. In the morning I went to school to take an exam, rushed home, loaded the guys in the car and we were off!
Initially we wanted to go to Skedenj, a cool cave-like crag with steep, long routes, but it was all wet due to rain of the previous week. Not a single patch of the rock was dry, and there was a wet mist floating at the bottom of the cave - not good!
So we resorted to the classic, the crag of choice - Mišja Peč. It was cloudy and thus not too warm (but still quite hot!). Actually, the heat made any serious attempts in seriously hard routes futile. Me and Urban had a go at Sreča vrtnice (8b) and a work session on Talk is cheap! (8c). I feel I need to say this: BIG big respect to anyone who has done this route. I think if I EVER do this, I quit climbing and become a monk. Or maybe take up football.

Then I felt like maybe today was the day to finally send Pikova dama, the 8b I have attempted a couple of times. So once again I climbed up to the top, move by move without a struggle, with a lot of rest and chalking up. I came to the last move that has stopped me a few times already (it's literally the last move - from the jug you get you can clip the anchor) feeling more fresh than ever, but I blew it.
Next time! It's such a cool route that you can't even get pissed off about it.
bottom tufa section in Pikova dama

Luckily, it was only me who blew it - Maja dispatched it second go, like a boss! It's funny how she found my cruxes easy and how she struggled where I thought it's piss. Anyway, the top crux is just straightforward micro-crimp ladder and as such no big deal for the master of the crimpy style! Big ups!

To consolidate for the bad luck, me and Urban decided we would do Albanjski konjak, a classic 8a which stretches through the center part of the crag, a great endurance route with a clever kneebar to help you get the cookie. He did it quite easily, and then thanks to his beta I succeeded as well (didn't really expect it though). It was a bit of a fight, and thus I was even happier :)

In the end it was a good day out, great to escape the bad weather and school obligations back at home. There should definitely be more of such times. Peace.

P.S. Congrats to the youth team for their performance in Voiron EYC! Namely Domen, Sergej, Anže etc.! Good effort guys! I'm psyched for the next stage of EYC in Austria in July!

Thanks for checking in!

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