Monday, July 2, 2012

Linz EYS

Yo!
Last weekend I was part of Slovenia youth climbing team which took part in a European Youth Series competition in Linz, Austria. This was my first european youth comp this year and thus I was psyched to perform well, to prove that the training has paid off.
Once again it turned out very successful for SYCT. We won 4 medals (Domen Škofic 1st, Anže Peharc 2nd and Sergej Epih and Tim Unuk 3rd). I placed fifth in the junior category and I'm quite happy with the result!

The competition was HOT!!! The climbing wall in the Linz Kletterhalle is pretty amazing, it must be at least 16 metres high and it's overhanging in most places. I was excited about that as I knew the routes will suit my style.
I am used to climbing in the heat because our gym is a real inferno in the summer, but this was even worse. I think I drank 4+ litres of fluid through the day and was literally soaked after each route. I saw people putting ice on their heads and all, it was that bad!

The first day we did the two qualification routes. I was placed third after the first route which gave me a big confidence boost for the second one. The routes were both quite the same style, just endurance climbing on good holds, the second one being a bit more techy as you had to smear on no footholds against the wall on your right. Still it was up to my liking and I was seemingly not getting pumped that much so I wrapped up the qually day in fourth place with a really good feeling for the finals.

The final route was not much different - just a straightforward blast up the contionus overhang with no really hard or tricky moves. I fought my way up, trying to rest a lot to be fresh for the overhang, but I came off just before the lip where a big volume offered another rest. Domen beat us by a fair amount of moves so congrats to him and also to Sergej for the third place and getting almost naked in the kletterhalle.
I think the routes in EYS comps were always my style. When you enter the senior competition (world cups etc.), things get MUCH harder (in terms of individual moves) and I feel this is my weak point.

The comp reminded me what they're about. It was great to meet friends again, feel the excited atmosphere before the climbing and so on. I was psyched to hear what other people are planning and instantly there were new ideas appearing :). It was really fun so I'm psyched for some more comps, but now that the summer is in full swing, I am being taken over by the endless possibilities that freedom and a driving license offer. A big climbing trip in the direction of France or Spain is being planned, but first I think I'll be escaping the heat and have a few days off in Bohinj. And maybe finish off some proj's in Bohinjska Bela!

Peace out to SYCT, all the finalists and everybody who competed in Linz. We are one special community but one that I love!

SYCT finalists! Well done guys!

the french crew, trop fort

fighting the heat

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