Thursday, August 2, 2012

The ups and downs

YO wassup everyone! It's been a while since the last post, but it's only now that we've managed to get back into civilisation! The dirtbag climbing lifestyle doesn't really allow for such luxuries as internet... But I like the freedom and the simple living!
After the last post we went to Ceuse for another three days, but we stopped in a small crag above L'argentiere called Rocher des Brumes where I onsighted the first eight of the trip! Izi did a really pumpy 8a+ second go which gave us a feeling of what is to come in Gorges du Loup. Then we watched the finals of euro youth bouldering cup where Gregor Vezonik took the victory! Impressive work mate!
We spent the next days in Ceuse with the youth team, a big thanks to them for their hospitality! We had a fun time together and it was great.
But in the aspect of sending, the second Ceuse stop was a definite "down". After having wrecked Entraygues, we were syked for some more hard ascents. Izi kept up the pace with onsighting Face de Rat,  8a+ and ALMOST onsighting L'ami de tout le monde, 8b - the latter was impressive to watch and yeah, he should have done it!
Izi psyched me for another try in Dures Limites, 8c. I had tried it last year but didn't like it, but this time with some of his beta and some more syke, I quickly had it worked out and was ready to send. I also worked on Arque type, the 8b I wanted to send and came really close but messed up some beta, it's so vertical and technical that it's all about footwork and precise moving.

So on the third day of Ceuse - last one actually, I was set up for a send in both routes. I began with some tries in Dures Limites, on the third one I  managed the first crux and came pretty high up so I could say that I was close, but I kinda pumped out. I was frustrated by the defeat and kinda angry, it was getting dark and I still had to clean the draws from Arque type. 15 minutes after the last try in Dures Limites I set off for the 8b, with a headlamp on my head and one leg. Surprisingly, I almost did it, despite the darkness that was setting in.

At first I was really pissed off, it was the bitter taste of defeat... Why  failure? Maybe it was because of the third day of climbing, maybe I was just not supposed to send... Anyway, I forgot about as we enjoyed an amazing moment in the full-moon lit Ceuse... an almost perfect end to the first lef of the trip.

Now we've had a few days in Gorges du Loup, we are working on some hard stuff so hopefully another "up" is on the way! Today is a rest day and we are spending in it Cannes which is a big change after days of tent living! So much luxury and tourists in one place... but we do have a common interest, we are here to see the legendary Dave Clarke playing his set on the beach at night! And then back to the Gorge for more tufa pulling and pump overdosing... we are psyched!
PEACE people!

Rocher des Brumes, a cool little cliff
a good bye to this...

and hello to this! LETS GET PUMPED!

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