Saturday, February 9, 2013

Bleau vol. 2

We woke up to snow covered fields today but luckily it's a rest day anyway. We've been grinding down the blocs really hard the last three days and it's time to give my arms a bit of a break. Despite the really bad forecast the last few days were as good as it can get. We were able to climb all the time and the conditions are actually really good... it's a bit cold when you start in the morning but after the warm up the cold makes it all STICK! This is what Bleausards call 'la collante'...

I was given the privilege to climb on some of the best lines of the forest (in my opinion); in Cuvier Rempart me and Dominik sent Le Big Boss, one of the famous "big four" of the area... although it fits my style perfectly, when I tried it on my first trip to Font I couldn't stick the crux move to the pocket over the lip. This time it went really quickly and I was well psyched ^^ At Rempart we also worked on the other famous lines and there might be some sendage when we go back... stay tuned

I also managed L'Angle Parfait, a 7b arete which to me embodies the climbing style of Bleau; a perfectly sculpted angle with hardly any features, proud looking, quite comitting at the top as well and a real test of perserverance and focus. Body tension and trusting the smears is the key... along with trying many times so your body learns the movements. Sadly I couldn't reclimb it for the video, but I was euphoric anyway...

We've managed to grab some footage and I will try to edit it into a short clip. Until then, a few bits... the quality is poor because of the wifi in macdonalds ^^

Image Hosted by
Dominik defying the forces on L'Angle parfait, 7b Image Hosted by
Matevz in his first 7a+, Duroxomanie Image Hosted by
Image Hosted by
Jakob on Beatle Juice 7a+ Image Hosted by
Image Hosted by
chilling in progress

Thanks for reading people! Have a bomber weekend! Peace yo

No comments:

Post a Comment