Thursday, February 14, 2013

OMG ITS SO STICKY

Yesterday in Fontainebleau we realized the true meaning of low temperatures and the stickiness they bring... it was the first day of good weather after we had been confined to our gite for the last few days because of rain. We were well rested and psyched out of our minds. It was a bit difficult to start off in the morning as it was really quite cold, probably about 5 degrees.

I didn't feel too good on the warmup but when we got on the projects everything clicked; first we checked out Noir Desir, the 7c in Cuvier Rempart that we had all been pretty close to on our previous trips. It's amazing how your body memorizes the specific moves in a boulder problem, we all needed only one or two tries to re-learn the moves and then we just sent one after the other. I mean, we did probably get stronger since the last time but still, exactly knowing the moves and that you have done them before makes it a lot easier even though it's been more than a year since we climbed on this bloc.

Then me and Jakob went to work on Michel-Ange, a sick 7c revolving around a monster shoulder move. I though it would go better but I wasn't making a lot of progress even though it felt like it's very possible, and Jakob was about the same. Then Dominik came around and said he did Tristesse, one of the "big four" 7c's which got Jakob psyched on it too so he went and crushed it while me and Dominik went back to Bas Cuvier for some more hard stuff - he made quick work of La balance, the classic 7c on slopers on the Carnage bloc, which was amazing to watch. I finished off L'Abbe resina, despite falling off the top another few times but the perserverance paid off in the end. The conditions were amazing, I probably wouldn't have done if it wasn't for the amazing stickiness as I was pretty tired already.

The last bloc of the day was La gaule, a killer 7c compression prow which pretty much feels like hugging a big refrigerator. It was getting dark already and we finished the session with headlamps on while Dominik managed the ascent from the sit start to get the 7c mark and me and Jakob did the stand at 7a. I was doing some good links from the bottom and I'm sure I would have done it I got on it again.
Bas Cuvier was full of people yesterday and I met some friends which was also pretty cool, there's lots of strong people in Font right now. Unlike last week, this week has a good forecast... right when we're almost leaving home :( but the last three days of our stay should be bomber so stay tuned for some more hard stuff (hopefully :)). We also visited Paris but this was actually not all that exciting as we didn't do anything besides the classic sightseeing. Anyway, it's on for the last three days, always hope for the best :) stay strong people

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posing in paris Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
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old school vs. new school Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
a day ruined by rain - we did some cleaning for good karma and an ethical approach to our sport Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
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me on and off 'Jet Set', a 7a dyno. My style... not Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
Jakob on Noir Desir Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
Dominik on Noir Desir Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
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Matevz crushing the red circuit Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
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Jakob in Michel-Ange and last but not least... Dominik CRUSHING the legendary Balance. RESPECT man!

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