Friday, July 12, 2013

First ascent in Creta and kicking off the trip!

Hey everybody
The summer trip I'd been considering for a while has finally kicked off! Psyche is high for the unknown we're heading for. The first stop is Prague with Rok and Urban which happened very quickly. Two days before leaving we were discussing our plans for the summer. I'd bought a train ticket to Prague to meet my friend Luke here but after he couldn't come my friends from uni were keen to join me and make a little trip out. We're now enjoying the freedom of having a few days with no plans and going around Prague a little bit, exploring and meeting people. We're leaving on Sunday - my ultimate goal is somewhere in France or Spain where there's lots of rock :) It's been an intense year at uni and I can't imagine a more perfect laidback company than my two collegues to relax our minds :)

Before I left I've had a great one day trip to Creta where I took some of my friends to try climbing - it was a team of me, Luka, Anja and Boris. We enjoyed the cool temps and fresh air of Creta.
the crew

Boris trying out the Slovenian rock!

Luka climbing again for the first time after the accident! psyched :)

 I managed to do the first ascent of 100% BIO project, a route bolted by Rajko in the rightmost sector (Domacica). I tried it a few times the previous time up there, but it was now that I found a key hold and unlocked the sequence. It's all about the hard, bouldery section in the first part of the route which includes some poor pockets and pinches but no big moves. After the third bolt it eases off a little but you don't get any jugs right until the top, so I got totally pumped on the ascent.
I think it's quite my style, but seeing I didn't need that many tries and that there might be easier beta I think it deserves to be 8b. In my opinion the rock is not as nice as on La la land or in Pjes mater sector, but the moves in the starting bloc are pretty cool... Get on it people.

getting angry in the crux!

crimps all the way up...

I'm psyched to have done a first ascent :) it was pretty cool to climb something I remeber I once looked at and thought like there's not going to be any routes going up this part of the wall. I experienced a bit of that magic the pros get from making new routes :P in any case thanks to Rajko for bolting it and letting me climb it!

All in all it was a fun day that we rounded off nicely with a party for Luka's birthday. Shoutout to everybody who was there :)!
Thanks for reading people, I hope you're having a blast this summer whereever you may be! Enjoy it and remeber to play it safe!


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