Friday, July 5, 2013

Val di Mello -> Kotečnik -> ... ?

The bad news strike hard... it saddens me so deeply that Tito Traversa, a young Italian climbing prodigy has passed away after a climbing accident.  I have never got to meet him but I am sure he was a psyched kid that was about to become one of the idols we would look up to and get inspired by him. It's cruel and unfair. My condolences go out to his family.
Adam and Tito, the embodiment of climbing spirit and motivation

So much has been going on lately there's barely enough time to update the blog and I forget all the cool stuff that's happened. But I've had two memorable mini trips out climbing that were great. First was Val di Mello in Italy with kids from the home gym, and second was a three days visit to Kotečnik and Kanjon (just got back home) which is only an hour and a half of drive from my home, but it still felt like a real climbing trip as we were out camping and hanging with a good crew.

Val di Mello was amazing, I didn't know the area has so much quality climbing and the ambiance is so beautiful - I think it's actually the most beautiful and unspoilt place I've been to for climbing. The boulders are lying around on green grasses amidst huge granite walls on both sides with a stream running down in the middle... the classic fairytale-like picture :)
We've had great fun, I think all the kids enjoyed it, many personal bests were achieved, time flew by in a blink :) the weather was great, the climbing also (I also sent a few lines, bouldered up to 7b+ and did some classic 8a routes which were sadly all chipped  - so maybe it's especially worth going bouldering, while the hard routes are a little boring with all the handmade holds).
There were a few unfortunate moments (I burnt 5 litres of milk making breakfast -.-) but basically we all made it back in one piece which is what counts most. I borrowed a few pics from Aljaz, thanks a lot mate

literally the first thing you see when you get up in the morning

Luka in a 7b
me on an 8a

Right after we made it home from Italy, me and the most psyched two guys, Blaž and Domen, set off for a short trip to Kotečnik and Kanjon which was a real bang, too. It felt like a real trip as we were a great crew, very psyched and strong. They both sent their first 8a's which was a nice, memorable thing (breaking into the 'magic' number :D). I had an amazing mental battle on Umazana igra which is a beautiful, hard 8b+ that I was really happy about sending... thanks to Blaž for getting me psyched.

The ticklist was:
Umazana igra 8b+ (6th try)
Adrenalin 8b (flash - with beta by Anže - thanks mate ^^)
Impulz 8a+ (3rd try)
Graceland 8a+ (2nd try)
Guernica 8a (finally! after so many tries, hard climbing in Kotečnik is finally on :D!)

got close to onsighting Divja žena 8a+ and also Divji mož 8a - but I did get a big consolidation prize with other sends ^^

Guernica 8a
Divji mož 8a (second go I think)
Divji otrok 8a (also second go I believe)

Specialist za življenje 8a+ (almost flash! so damn close!)
Guernica 8a FLASH :)

Thanks to Izi for showing us around Kanjon today, everybody who came along, Eva for support and belaying on the second day...
I wonder what the next chapter will be... I know I'm leaving on a trip soon, but no actual plans were made yet... I will keep this place updated if anything exciting happens.

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