Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Timeless summer

Hey everybody
so it's been two weeks already since I've got home from my climbing trip, yet I haven't posted anything in my blog. I was too lazy for the self-promotion and I didn't bring any camera to this trip (and I always like to post some pics too), but I am finding out the blog is a pleasant occupation for myself too, as it's nice to look back and reflect on the memorable events that happened along the way. What follows is a recap of the last part of my trip and the time I've spent cragging in Slovenia... I've no job, no uni exams or particular life neccesities to take care of, so it seems like life right now is afloat in timeless space, no particular direction to head in, time's lost meaning... But the thing I'm realizing is that even though I naturally tend to try to make the most of my time and the opportunities at hand (seeing life itself as a big opportunity) - a logical consequence of how I was raised up and the system we live in - climbing is this irrational activity that I don't need to justify to myself with potential benefits or whatever. All you get is cut fingertips and bruised knees and worn out shoes stacking up in you wardrobe... but hey we're still doing it all the time.

The last two weeks of the trip I spent in one of my favourite places on earth, Ceuse. The crag itself needs no describing I believe...
magic
It was my fourth time here, so it felt a lot like returning to a local place you know well... but time and time again I amazed by it. Just sitting under the cliff, high above the normal life in the valley fills you with inner peace and satisfaction. The climbing is the most aesthetic you can get and I love it.
This time I didn't tick that much (I am running out of routes in my comfort zone-grades), but I did two routes that count for much in my climbing log-book.
First was Arque type, a slabby 8b in Berlin sector which was a project from last year (when I had to leave it with the bitter taste of defeat in my mouth). The effort I put in sending this and the beauty of rock definitely puts it among my most memorable ascents.
The other was La chronique de la haine ordinaire, a 25 metres overhanging 8c in Biographie. This one is not as prized for beauty as some of the other 8c's here (which are all on the to-do list), it has some chipped holds in the starting boulder (even though the rest is super nice climbing), but I didn't care. It fit my style and I was psyched to have unlocked the hard climbing in Biographie sector. It's just so intimidating with its 8c's adn Biographie, the route itself... Definitely pysched for more one day (when I'm fitter ^^)!


I love the laidback lifestyle in Ceuse and the friendly climber atmosphere in the camping. It's part of what makes it so special for me...even the walk up starts to seem like "yeah, we're training" instead of "fuck me, why are we doing this!" when everybody is psyched for the climbing above. Climbing a muerte each day and the pasta diet makes you feel healthy and after a few days you feel how you're becoming fitter (and you feel like a machine when you get back home ^^). But above all it's sharing the nice moments below the wall. I love the little chatting when you're tying in and a guy you know crosses your path - after a few days you get the impression you know everybody at the cliff and you reall feel "at home".

A big shout-out to everybody who made this year's stay at Ceuse so nice! Anja, Dominik and Jakob, the Slovenian team that I climbed with for some time (before they left for bouldering in Italy), Lea, Mauwe and Nico from Grenoble (thanks for the betas and lessons in French ^^), Clemens, Yelmar and Joannes from the camping for all the belays and nice dinners, Franz the swiss machine... I love you all guys! See you next year :D

I finished the trip with a return home vie hitchhike, which I decided upon earlier (I wanted to do the whole route by hitching). This proved to be a tiring, but amazing feat and in the end a real heart-warming experience... The generosity and kindness of some people is infinite and I think it's important to have something like this to remind you of it from time to time... in fact I did most of the travelling on this trip alone and I find it fascinating how there's always people who will help you out when you're in trouble!


The days after my return (it's been two weeks now) I have used for seeing my family and friends from uni (also some celebrating of various occasions ^^), dealing with the forthcoming start of uni-life, reading books and making the best of my time even just by peaceful contemplation.
But there's rock waiting for me in Slovenia, too. I have had two days on my project in Bohinjska bela, Privid (stay tuned for this people!) and did some climbing in Kotečnik. I am psyched on the new potential, the Čreta project and rocks in Bohinj area. I attended Grapafest which was a great event, big respect and thanks to the guys who made the effort! After all it's nice to be back ^^
good times in d'Grapa

Kotečnik is calling for another visit to get things done... here are some photos from last time when I was climbing with Luka and Slatnska banda (Bizi, Miha, Petra).
getting angry on Stigmata (8b+/c)
Bizi the machine got close to Umazana igra... and for me it's Stigmata and Katakombe on the project list! Soon!
sickkk

Bizi on Umazana igra (8b+)
Cheers everybody thanks for reading, see you all out there! Get psyched for the approaching good weather! Time to go and send!

1 comment:

  1. Wow, really nice story Gasper. Good luck on the Kotečnik-projects and hasta la vista! Yelmar (Jelmer)

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