Sunday, September 15, 2013

A new chapter

Hey all
I have spent the two last weeks in crags around Slovenia and chilling in Ljubljana and at home. I've been thinking about another climbing trip somewhere, but the bussines at home has proved to be exciting too. I've had a few sessions indoors which made me feel even stronger and with the approaching start of a new year of studies there was things to take care of in Ljubljana.

that line!


First off was a great three days' stay in Kotečnik. On my first day I was feeling extremely light and energized which permitted me to climb both Stigmata, 8b+/c and Katakombe, 8b+ while feeling there's still power to spare. Along with these two I ticked Divji mož and Divjo otrok, both 8a, on my warmup. Both 8b+ses are good routes but my favourite is still Umazana igra. The other two days I got stuck into working Iluzija, an 8c which is a contender for the best route of Kotečnik and feels like a solid grade harder than the two 8b+! In fact it felt really hard, but possible at the same time and I'm really psyched to get on it again when I visit, well rested and fit!
last time on Stigmata


Then after a stint of bad weather I was back to my main goal for this summer, Privid in Bohinjska bela. My story with this route has been going for two years and I've written about it here before. This time it felt much better than two weeks ago, I was feeling light and agile. I knew I was approaching the right state of body and mind which would permit me to send. Encouraged by Miha and Anže (thanks guys ^^!), I had two great attempts which both felt like I was going to send... sadly I didn't, but I wasn't too frustrated - I was only hoping to get back to it before the rain strikes again.
Luckily I managed to get back two days later to find the crag full of familiar faces. The atmosphere was right, I'd found my belayer and I knew it was time to send. I set off and managed to pull off a great attempt, making no mistakes and keeping it together through all the hard moves, to clip the chains of Privid! I was super happy and above all content to have finished off something I was once already so close to doing, then other times it felt so so hard.
Somehow though I don't feel it justifies for 8c+... I was in a bit of a dilemma but I believe it's more of a hard 8c, but it's hard to take into account the style of the route which suited me pretty well. Anyway, it's done and I'm super happy, it's an entry to the next level for my climbing - it's definitely my hardest yet even if I don't think it deserves 8c+. I hope we can do another photo- or video session on it to showcase this truly amazing line up the wall.

Also marking a new chapter in my life is the fact that as of September I'm temporarily residing in Ljubljana! Living closer to my school, new job opportunity, a new climbing scene to get to know and integrate into, meeting two great guys with mutual mindset and moving away from home have culminated in this nice and super cosy flat we have got for us. It's not really economically viable, and it may result in less climbing trips, but whatever, I am super excited on the new life, a change after leading the same lifestyle for some years now and it might help me get to know more about myself and what my pursuit in life really is. I am also proud to say I've been taken on the Društvo za razvoj plezalne kulture coaching team which I see as a great opportunity for working with younger climbers and transferring some of my knowledge (if there's anything useful). I hope I will live up to the responsibility :)


work @ Stena... psyched for some sessions soon!

Then after a short break from rocks, during which we worked and climbed at Stena in Ljubljana (a great place I like to go - there's always a good session going on, and I was keen to help and be part of the community), my last trip to rock was yesterday with Miha, Lucija and my sister Nada. We enjoyed the perfect temperatures and great ambiance in Vipavska Bela, everyone ticked off a few nice routes (well excpet for me - I was feeling super strong but failed to send anything, oh well). The crag has apparently got a 'face-lift' (nice stairs on the approach, benches everywhere... feels really cosy) by the local climbing community and is now even more suitable and pleasant for a day out with family or friends or even kids, regardless of what grade you're climbing in.

Miha doing great on a 6c+...

Vipavska Bela still a bit wet...

I came really close to Povodni mož, 8b+, it's a bit of a longtime project now but yesterday it was the wet holds (good excuse)


For the next two weeks I am hoping for some nice weather and good times at the crag in general... so psyched for the forthcoming! PEACE out everybody, stay strong!

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