Sunday, February 1, 2015


"Genügend Kraft ist ein Zustand, den es gar nicht gibt." - "There's no such thing as too much power."
Wolfgang Gullich

Gullich nailed it here. This is literally what his training was about. But he was the visionary coming up with new ways of training that allowed him to train way harder than others at that time. This is how limits are pushed.
In a way I feel fortunate that my weak point in training is power - finger and arm strength. This way I can train efficiently few times per week, putting in two hours of an intense campus/fingerboarding or core training and still get much out of it. Thank god I don't need much of those volume circuit endurance sessions!

"Rock climbing is easy. Competitions are hard and intense."
Patxi Usobiaga, ex-world champion

We used to laugh at this one. But having had my experience with competitons (and now happy with just rock climbing), I can totally relate to the guy. Putting on a good performance at the comp is at another level of mental difficulty than sending your project at the crag. 
There's people willing to dedicate their whole year for one competition, or maybe one big route. If you are training with a specific goal in mind, don't be afraid to commit fully. If you do, it will surely pay off.

"Eat less, train more, try harder."
Stevie Haston, psycho granddad climbing 9a at over 50, on how to climb harder

I think Stevie is one of climbing's gods. This is his one and only commandment. Heck, it's his bible. 
Ok well knowing he was British, one could assume he was obsessed with training. This quote alone doesn't do his greatness the justice. Check out his blog and be inspired.

"No, no, no. You did this like a pussy."
Roman, my ex-coach

I was privileged to grow up climbing on one of the country's best indoor walls. In Slovenia, it has grown to a reputation comparable to that of Sheffield's Schoolroom, except that it doesn't get that hyped through the media. Arguably he is the man behind this. Given the number of World Cup winners or the percentage of Slovenia's climbing team that has arised from this wall, one can conclude there must be something about "not being a pussy".

"To anyone writing about #dawnwall, this is not an effort to "conquer". It's about realizing a dream."
Kevin Jorgeson on Twitter, in the face of the massive media coverage the climb had attracted

This could be the best way to explain why we do it, to a non-climber. The dream keeps the obsession alive.

"So proud of @TommyCaldwell1 and @KJorgeson for conquering El Capitan. You remind us anything is possible. -bo"
Barack Obama on Twitter - didn't get it

Barack Obama had to tag along. A bit phony I find, but still cool - they deserved all the hype.

I've been mega syked on training lately. It's what has kept me sane during the hours I've put into studying. I'm curious to see how it will work. The next step is dreaming up the next objective. Shoutout to all the gym heads out there. YEEEHOOO!

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