Thursday, December 29, 2011

Siuranian classics vol. 1

Hey everyone!
Today was a day of redemption for me! Migranya was a route I had first tried last December, and I came really close to sending on second go. I came back in March with the youth team, hoping to send it easily because I'd thought I got stronger... turns out this was not the case, so I was psyched to get it at last! It's a classic 8b, taking on a huge overhang in the L'Olla sector, left  of the enourmous walls of El Pati. It's a five star line with two distinct cruxes and sick climbing! 
One of the easier routes of El Pati and another unmissable line is Zona 0. Also 8b, it's a more endurancey line on more vertical terrain, and it was the other challenge today (I came really close to sending on Monday). Today climbing it was pure joy, a real a muerte fight in raging wind. I felt really strong, but even so I managed the top crux only barely. It all felt like in some sort of slow-motion, I was about to lose the key two-finger pocket, and I saw my middle finger almost coming off, yet latching back at last. I was determined not to let go!
Ticking off the two classic 8bs of Siurana was an amazing feeling, especially since I've come really close before, but then screwed up... like some sort of vengeance :) All in all it was simply  another brilliant day we've been having last week, with a spotless sunshine and many friends hanging around... Izi also finished his mini-epic in Zona 0 with style, and there was some other hard stuff going down... Alex did Migranya profunda, 8b+ (Gregor is still working on it). Kalea Borroka is the next line we've sighted, so expect some sendage in the next days :)


Yesterday we spent a nice day as well, we went to check out Monsant, an area close to Siurana. Everytime coming to Siurana I'd been looking at the enormous rock barrier above the village of Cornudella... el Raco de Missa is the sector with the hardest lines; the climbing is similar to Margalef (many pockets which can be very sharp!), the big overhang was a real killer and we were getting pumped badly. It's mainly just about endless pulling on pockets with each move similar to the previous. 
Even so, we grabbed some nice send, the highlight was Domen Škofic onsighting Hidrophobia (8b or 8b+?)! Such a beast! Urbič managed an 8a+ onsight (one that I found badly desperate), myself and Izi got up to 8a! Oh and yea today's news is Mina Markovič also crushed Hidrophobia onsight! Amazing!
The crag itself is class, amazing ambiance! Some photos:

 
 Only a few days left! Still so many things to do! Thanks for reading everyone, good luck with your projects, whatever it may be! VENGA

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

The Siurana files

Can Piqui Pugui, home of the old school classics... it was freaking hot!
Siurana has to be one of my favourite places ever. One of the famous crags is called Can Piqui Pugui and the climbing here sums up the style of the area... crazy technical slabs with poor crimps all over and an odd pocket here or there, all on perfect, supersolid rock... Sunday was a super fun day, we were doing routes up to 7c while enjoying the hot sun. It's great to be getting back into the feeling and the climbing here is perfect for this. We love it!
me trying Zona 0

Yesterday the weather was just as perfect, and we enjoyed the climbing in El Pati, the other famous sector (with routes such as La Rambla and Kalea Borroka). Right now things are getting HOT in Siurana! There's a big gang of Slovenians and also many other strong climbers (Enzo&Alex, Sachi Amma, Daniel Jung...), and more importantly, we started climbing hard! Me and Domen went for an El Pati classic, Zona 0, an endurance crimpy  route on a slightly overhanging wall. Domen got it second go, while I came off at the last hard move (having done the hardest bit)! A part of the group went to Margalef, where Gregor Vezonik flashed Photo shot, 8b. Good effort bro :)
Today we're taking a bit of rest, my tips are well chewed up and the muscles are sore as well. A shoutout to everyone around, Ajda, Jarm&Ana, Urbič, Vezi, Rajko, Mojca, Urša, Domen, Sergej, Izi, Jure, Miha, Karin, Luka Fonda, Uroš, Marina, Zorko.... My friends Chris&Chiara and many others (in no way this is in order of importance or whatever :D).

Enjoy your days climbing everyone! See you out there!

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Spain... we are in the game!

Hello everyone!
We are back to climbing :) today was the first day after a three weeks break! And yeah... we are in SIURANA man! Is there any better place to go, anyway? S
We decided to take it easy the first day, so we were doing basically just a lot of routes, mainly in the seventh grade. It feels so good to be moving up again! The psyche is high for the next days, we are so excited to be here! There's a big crew of friends here, so the trip should be fun! We are staying until the 2nd of January, let's goooooo!!!!




Thanks for checking in! I will try to keep it updated with some photos and stuff, much love :) PEACE

Sunday, December 18, 2011

something completely different

Hey there, hello everyone!
Not going climbing the time is hard to kill! Every climber knows what I'm talking about I think :) myself I've been pretty much taking it easy, it's good to take some time off and just relax! One thing I love is reading books, and luckily I've managed to dedicate some time to it! Oh and yea, parties are good fun too! On Wednesday I went to the goodbye party of Natalija Gros which was really class! She has put an end to her comp career this year and this was a great way to finish off I think :)! Also, the photos were really amazing! And I had the chance to meet all my climbing friends again (we are so psyched for Spain it's ridiculous haha :D)!

on a climbing unrelated note: my Mum and I have this deal that I bake a cake as a birthday present for her! It started a while ago, firstly more as a joke or an experiment, but it's turned into a serious tradition now :) it's not that I'd be so much into cooking, I just see it as a cool way to show that she didn't bring up someone who couldn't even take care of himself, therefore I try to do something that men are said to be really bad at! And it's nice to learn new stuff, it would be really useful if I knew how to cook well :)
ok, so this year the recipe was really complex, it took me about 5 hours to complete it but the end result is pretty good I think :) it doesn't look that good but the taste was outstanding! well there's almost nothing left of it so...


Peace guys! Enjoy your cakes!

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Year 2011

I've been keeping track of all my rock climbing I do in a book that's become very dear to me, so here's the facts from 2011 (including the pre-NYE days in Siurana :D):
-I have spent 73 days out rock climbing. Wow.
-I've visited 28 different areas, from Siurana, Oliana and other Spanish pump-fest monster crags to the mecca of bouldering, Fontainebleau (what a trip!), Magic Wood, a couple of smaller crags in Slovenia that I haven't been to before (Ter, Vipavska Bela, Bohinjska Bela), local crags (Zminec :D)... diversity of styles is the source of psyche
-I've done 40 routes in the 8th grade; 15 8a's (7 of which onsight), 10 8a+'s (3 of which onsight), 9 8b's, 5 8b+'s and the one 8c. On grades: Daniel Woods summed it up: "Rock and grades will never corelate"
-spent almost three months somewhere out of Slovenia! I love this! Just stay away from home as much as possible! Everytime it's nice to return, but in a few days you're back in the routine and this kills!




MY PICKS (la creme):
-Le poinconneur des lilas, 8a+ in Ceuse. My favourite out of ALL crazy technical, crimpy vertical pitches in Demi Lune. Wins just ahead of La femme blanche, another massive pitch.

-Kaj ti je, deklica?, 8b+ in Mišja Peč. A long standing project finally drawn to a close deserves an honour! One of the best lines ever. Took quite a few tries, but I never really cared as it was always fun. The send day might have the best day in 2011? Pure joy it was. Slightly emotional! Nah, I'm joking :D

-Siouxie, 7c+ in Siurana. Did it onsight after only a couple of days of climbing after the break, 100% my style and the kind of climbing I love, technical, monos, varied, perfect rock....

-Revolucija, 8c in Osp. Well of course you might say! I think the biggest battle in a while! And a great day out in general! Pretty hard as well!

-Siddharta, 8a+ in Baratro. One of the few natural lines in an otherwise cool crag, did it just after I started climbing again after the finger injury! Regained psyche! A nice evening followed :P (21.6.2011)

-Jon Pascal, 7b in Zminec. Back to the old school, back to the roots! Took me 4 tries, it's an inhanging slab. Doesn't let you breathe. Was very happy to send! Not quite my style.

-Beaute de chine, 8a+ in Tournoux. Amazingly exposed crag and a very cool route. Had a great day with the youth team and then saw the finals of the World Cup in Briancon where Mina and Maja took the first two places, and fnished off the France summer trip with a sick party. What else?

-Bagheera, 7C in Fontainebleau. Perfect line, 100% Font style. Just hard enough to provide slopers you can barely call holds and at the same time easy enough for me to send. Perfect days.

There's been so many others! I love looking back at all those routes. So psyched for Spain!

THE NEMESES (What should have got sent - and will eventually):
-Pikova dama, 8b in Mišja Peč. Ughhh I will say no more.
-La peste nera, 8b+ in Baratro. Same story as above, fell off the last move multiple times. Pussy style.
-Migranya. Psyched to kill it on the first day in Siurana!
-Povodni mož, 8b+
-Karizma, 8b+, the project remains. Grossly hard for the grade, for me.
-Noir Desir, 7C. When do we return to Font???
an Osp sunset

working... sadež :D

Ceuse times!

welcome to the hood :D

Luke diving into the blue

lost in Ceuse


 
 fucking ridiculous clip :D makes me crack up everytime i see it :D
 Thanks for reading people! Much love! Too much time with no climbing ->longer posts on the blog :) good or bad? Anyway, till next time

Winter break!

Hey!
The 2011 season is finished! We wrapped it up on Sunday in Kranj with the last national cup. I won the overall ranking in Youth A lead (owing to Domen missing out two comps), in this comp I took second place after Domen and just ahead of Gregor :)
I had also qualified for the senior bouldering finals which were the last event of the day. It was a great way to finish off - the atmosphere was really good and for me it was big fun doing the competition, even though the problems turned out a bit too hard (for me and for some others as well :D). Jernej Kruder won with an impressive performance, congratulations also to Urban Primožič who was faced with a finger injury and still managed to come second! See some photos here. There was a DJ on top of the wall structure and the beats kept everybody going! The whole three days were a lot of fun!

But it's also nice to take a break from time to time! I'm not climbing until the trip to Spain so my body will have some time to regenerate and my mind to get psyched! Actually it's not so hard, I'm sitting at home watching climbing movies all the time and it's blowing my mind! I'm anxious to get out on rocks again :) Still, right now I'm slightly sick, I think it's because of the stress related to climbing and school and lack of sleep in the past few weeks! Should be fine soon :)
The time up to Christmas will pass in a blink of an eye, there's a lot to do even though I've a lot of time now.... schoolwork, seeing friends, some good parties, the Christmas-ey atmosphere... :)


Year 2011 in terms of climbing was amazing! Not really outstanding on the competition side, but definitely very interesting and varied, I've made a lot of trips, seen many new places and crags, I've met a ton of new people and made good friends with many of them which is probably what I'm most psyched about!
I've undergone an injury, I had a spontaneous trip to Ceuse which has then turned into an amazing summer, I've completed some of my projects in Mišja Peč and yeah... the list is just too long! So I decided to look at my climbing journal, try to find the highlights and dig into the hard drive for some pics... Everything only for your liking, dear reader!
I'm really happy with the feedback I'd received about this blog, still any comments or criticism is much appreciated!
And thanks to YOU for checking in and digging this! Much love everybody!

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Failure and how to deal with it

Words cannot describe how pissed at myself I am right now. I am sitting at home with a bitter taste in my mouth, the comps today went like crap and I feel completely demotivated for anything right now. Yeah I could go do some schoolwork, or go training, or do something else or whatever but I seem to just don't CARE. Or, is it I care too much? I figured I could put my thoughts here... I've often had a hard time enduring failure, even though I guess just about every climber was once faced with it. I've thought it through, I have to get it straight if I mean to do anymore competing tomorrow. Mind you, don't take this too seriously! It's only a national cup in any case, and even if it was the finals of World Championship it's no use crying over spilt milk. I just thought it would be interesting to try and write it down.

I just came home from Kranj, I did the senior lead qualification and unluckily ended up 12th place, missing the finals. Now the important thing is, on the warmup I felt strong, the days before I used to think I'm actually in shape, and contrary to some other times I really felt making the finals would be a routine. When I fell, it wasn't because of pump or anything, I'd made a mistake and was slightly out of focus.
The problem is, I really feel like I should be there, up amongst the top 10. I mean, I could have been, easily. I'm sure of this. And right because of this, I feel so... angry... almost like losing something that you feel belongs to you.

 "Jeremy is now pathetically anxious to succeed." - Jerry Moffat's school teacher, taken from Revelations (could do with another reading of this book!)

It seems that each competiton season, I make a few good results here and there which give me the feeling that it's possible to improve even further, and that's when I get really motivated for evereything. The bad thing is, this sort of raises your expectations and consequenty the potential disappointment. I feel my wish to succeed is actually setting me back, I'm anxious to the point of being mentally destroyed (even though only for an hour) after doing bad in a comp. Well you might just say I should take it easy, and I know this is the only way to keep doing it, but then again... it's the crazy drive you feel while competing which is making you climb well, is it not? It's probably worthless, all this, after all it was just a national cup... I'm getting fed up with it.
The chance was there for me to seize, I let it go, it's too late now, then why bother? I guess I just really wanted to do well in the last comp of the season, and the senior lead was what I was most psyched about.

Things aren't as grim, I guess. There's still Youth A lead tomorrow (my age group), and guess what... I made it to finals of senior bouldering tomorrow evening :) I'm probably getting spanked, but fuck it. I'll make another post about how it went, and include some pictures hopefully :)
Good luck to the people in finals tongiht! And peace to y'all!