Thursday, October 31, 2013

Autumn sending days

Yo all,
ok so here it is! Finally I get to update this blog, I've been keen on it since my motivation for climbing is shooting high again after a while, but I've been a little lazy in the self-promotion aspect. The end of summer and the coming of fall have marked a nice period in my climbing as I've been getting out lots and also doing some nice sends/going places!
I just got back home from a nice one day trip to Pandora with Klemen, Ema and David. I've been missing out on this crag for too long... we didn't really pick the best time to visit as the burning sun made us sweat like hell, the shoes soon felt uncomfortable and the sending mode wasn't really on in general. I went head-first into Avatar hoping for an onsight, but stupidly missed the entry and tried out The Blob, 8c - which turned out to be an awesome route. Later on I was too tired for Avatar though :( I did however manage to onsight an 8a called Naytiri and Dave dispatched Chin check, 7c. The crag is so crazy cool with the perfect rock, routes with great moves and high level roof climbing, plus there's a hole in the roof, I'm psyched to come back soon when the temps drop a bit!
Avatar! epic route

I'm psyched to get a few days out this week... the start of uni and life in Ljubljana have slightly stalled my climbing again. But it's been exciting! Recently we've begun work in the new climbing gym of Ljubljana, Plezalni center. It should open sometime in December, it will be grande and proper awesome, words can't describe how psyched people are on it... We're doing our best to set some nice boulder problems and routes for everyone to test their skills and enjoy a good vibe sessioning it out with friends. More about the Center to come... stay tuned!
legendary buhtelj... with a twist!

decisions... i stole the pics off the page, thanks to Dave :)
The last weekend I did the national competition in Tržič and had a good time since I managed to pull off a nice performance that put me in 4th place in the end! I was getting pumped too hard cause I haven't really been training endurance indoor, but I was well rested and without expecting much, it kinda worked. Props to Urban for winning and Domen and Sergej taking 2nd and 3rd place!

I'm psyched to have earned the chance to climb in the Kranj World Cup in two weeks time! I've never done a World Cup and I'm very intimidated by it, but at the same time it should be fun just to try! It's just that now I'm kinda facing a dillema, whether or not to try and get in a better shape! 14 days isn't much, but a few hardcore sessions and losing a kilo may well help. Then again, any serious training also means committing yourself and expecting a payoff... and I know well expecting too much can ruin the while thing for me.

Equally as fun were the days we've recently spent in our beloved Osp! It's that time of the year again... climbers are flocking to Osp. I took sixth place in Janez Jeglič memorial with 12minutes 59 seconds in the huge Goba race (an overhanging multipitch route climbed with a 200 meter toprope) which didn't feel bad at all! Domen Škofic took the victory even despite it was his first appearance in the comp.
Another epic moment was when I managed to send Konec mira, an 8c/c+ route in Mišja Peč. It felt so hard some time ago... now it was only a matter of being well rested and having a good day out with some friends cheering for me! Now that I've done the most of the overhanging routes in the right part of the crag, it's time to focus on a mega badass line in the middle. Those routes were always the real challenge for me as they're much more complex and require good crimping, whereas 'Hladilnik' is mostly about power-endurance.
last year's send: Matičkov svet, 8b. Damnit there will always be projects to go at in Osp...

And last but not least, I've had two days out climbing some old-school ultra classic slabs in Bohinjska Bela. I managed an onsight of Literarni nokturno, 8a which made me well psyched and came super close to Adria, 7c+ in the onsight. Both routes are superb and I think it's a shame how nowadays some strong climbers don't like or don't appreciate this style of climbing. Ok, well actually I just called it oldschool, too but... slabs are COOL!

trying Via facti, 7c+

two climbers on the same wall with the infamous Boj za užitek, 8b+, the white-streak line between them

Ok so that's it! To sum up, I am psyched and it's time to make the most out of it. I am planning a trip in the future and the plan is too big to fail... Big ups to everybody who was part of the crew! Shoutout to my mates and my sister currently in Macedonia, I love you guys but hate not coming along this time.
Vipavska Bela tomorrow! Onwards!