Saturday, September 29, 2012

Hot days in Osp

Heyy all!
Life's been getting really exciting lately! The main thing right now is UNI! I am starting lectures on Monday and I expect it to be quite a big undertaking! It's surely going to keep me well busy! Anyway, I'm excited as hell! I've been meeting future collegues and actually went climbing with one of them several times (shout out to Luka :D).
I've been spending the last days of freedom going climbing quite a lot, I've been to Osp three times this week doing routes in the big wall, some hard single pitches and finally today the annual Memorial Janeza Jegliča - Johana, the big wall speed climbing comp.

Alright, first off, the comp didn't really work out as it did previous years - I didn't even reach the top of the 90 metre top rope in Magična Goba, the route we did (hardest pitch - 7c!). You can tell I got pumped out of my mind (I was close to the top though). I guess partially due to messing up some sequences on the route (only did it once this year - with Miha Jarm on Wednesday) and partially due to lack of sleep from the night out :( It all comes at a price!
I wasn't really feeling too good today, so I finished it off with some tries in some hard routes, but no success. I am getting REALLY upset about my climbing shoes, they are so shit and I badly need some new ones. I might actually not go climbing at all until I get hold of a new pair :P

The last three days out have been more about trying than sending! I have a new project in Osp, Osapski pajek is a classic 8c which I hope to do as soon as the cool temps arrive and the psyche will be up again! In the meantime, I satisfied the sending crave with the right varation of the route, called Matičkov svet 8b. That was on Thursday, it was a cool day out! Žiga Debevec and Miha Jarm are trying Karies 8b - we had a good session working our routes and getting some photos! Jarm is looking pretty good on it so hopefully it'll go down soon!

I'll let you know as soon as we get another day out in our favourite crags and something gets sent! I am really tired ATM so not feeling up to the blog thingie! Oh and yeah there's a comp next weekend, I am syked for some comps after a while :) hopefully we can all stay strong as hell, go climbing a lot and go out to socialize, oh and go to uni as well! I mean... who needs sleep anyway?

peace folks! thanks for reading!

Žiga on Karies 8b! Serious bussines man!

me on the send try in Matičkov svet, this is also the bottom crux of Osapski pajek

going for the tufa... bang!

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Working hard!

Yo all, time for an update to this space! The climbing life lately has been quite exciting actually even though I've only been going to some crags around Slovenia! Bohinjska Bela has been getting the most attention lately! Last week I was able to finish off my old project Moški za naslado 8b, which is a totally sick route and one of the best on the wall. It's been resisting my attempts for quite some time even though I expected a quick send at first! Anyway clipping the chains was pretty awesome...
Seeing that I was about to run out of routes at the crag, I decided to go straight for the hardest one! Privid (8c+) has now become the project and one that I've been well obsessing about! The last four visits I've been working it and trying, and I've had some very near-send attempts!

To be honest though, it's turning into a proper siege by now... 4 days on and 10 tries on it already... but, I am determined to get it! What got me so hooked was the fact that all the moves went first try easily, and duuude, what moves... The line is absolutely sick. Right after the crimpy slab which is not too hard you get into about 20 hard moves with a really shit rest at about halfway that allows you to kinda shake out and breathe in, but I'm unsure yet whether I'm actually resting or getting even more pumped on those two crimps!

Besides the fact that it feels do-able, it would also make my hardest send yet which is another reason why I'm willing to put in some more grind! And with every day on it, I'm getting some progress, refining sequences, getting it all wired... I've spent some tries falling at the bottom crux due to bad beta which has now been corrected with a minor foot placement!

So yeah, as you can see I AM getting all psyched up about it. Hopefully the weather will allow me to return and crush... I was only a move away from glory today!

The last two days have been pretty awesome anyway as I did a small trip with Miha Jarm, Cele and Luka. Luka is this guy I met who is going to be my classmate in next years and I was psyched to find out the guy has just taken up climbing and is super keen on it! It's kinda cool because it gets me really keen too! Today he passed the exam in climbing technique by doing Socadance, 6b+! Good effort mate, keep up the psyche!

We've had two days of good weather, cool temps and awesome climbing, congrats to Jarm for doing Ženska za nagrado 8a! Peace guys!

Cheers to Luka for getting on the rope today and taking some photos of us... stay tuned for some news people!

Jarm on the 8a, jugs all over :P


Thursday, September 6, 2012

Roadtripping Slovenia

just got back home after a short three day trip through Slovenia. I feel bad for having gone on so many trips abroad with so much rock lying within 1.5 hour of driving from my home... Me and Nada, my sister went to Kotečnik, Jurgovo (Rogla) and finally Snovik today. The initial plan was Kotečnik for three days to work on some hardcore climbs in our biggest crag, but then Izidor and Luka Frelih made us go check out the new bouldering spot called Jurgovo in the woods of Rogla. The torrential rain last night made us bail from the Tratnik camp (a really nice place to stay! really kind people and quite cosy) and luckily we decided to stop in Snovik on the way back, another new crag which is small but well worth a visit. We found it completely dry, so the psyche was high again!

The return to Kotečnik after some years was a pleasant surprise! Right after some easy warmups I onsighted CSN, 8a+. It was just one of those moments of feeling good, a clean mind and rested forearms... a pure joy!
Then I tried Umazana igra, 8b+ which is a classic line with some awesome moves, pure power endurance on good holds but quite technical as well... I felt too tired to send on second go, so maybe next time!

The second day we were not sure what to do, either Kotečnik or Jurgovo with friends but when Fređo called me up it was clear, the guy was soo psyched to go, there was no dillema :) We were psyched to make the most of the day so we did a quick session in Kotečnik in the morning - Nada ticked Marjetica, 6c (looked quite piss!) and I did the classic Nebo nad Berlinom, 8a (not man enough to onsight, but quite close still). It turned out to be a good day of crawling through the woods, the crag is not very "user friendly" like maybe Magic Wood but the rock is just as good! Really sharp and compact granite! And some fun problems! Izidor, Kruder and Zorko showed us around repeating their problems, I managed two 7bs, Moj moj and Johnny Cash, both within a few goes. Nada and Fređo played around on the easier stuff and Fređo came away with Osamljen Bin Laden, 6b+ which is his hardest yet! I'm sure there's more to come :) Cheers to the guys for taking us on a tour, the place is awesome!

The rain made us reconsider the last day, so we decided to move direction home but try to get some climbing in too! Snovik was a good choice, it's not very big but quite high, and overhanging too! Respect to the developers of the crag as it holds some really good lines! I did the two hard ones through the overhang, 366 dni, 8a (onsight) and Krvavi pajek, 8b/b+ on second go (very happy about this one! had to try REALLY hard!).

So a good little trip in overall, we are psyched! Peace! Photos next time (if you believe)