Wednesday, May 1, 2013

The great outdoors

Yo all,
I finally got to spend a few days climbing outside! It was amazing to be out again after a few weeks of very little action. And what better place to spend this time than Čreta, breathing the fresh mountain air and enjoying the forest ambiance, climbing and chilling with friends :) It really is a nice place. First we spent a weekend up there (we stayed at the mountain hut and the hospitality of the owners was really nice), then I returned yesterday for some more action. Plenty of hard stuff got sent, I surprised myself with doing La la land, 8b+ yesterday which was really unexpected, I didn't think I was in any shape really. I guess the good vibe made us all climb harder.
We climbed a few newer lines, and I think it's cool to see the place being developed. Me and Izi repeated Storžoc, 8a+, a really nice and long pitch with a cool boulder and then a nice slabby finish, and we did the second and third repeat of La la land. Me, Jarm and Matjaž all did Pune bombe v ovinek, 8a+ which is definitely a route to look out for, cool sustained climbing with two cruxes which aren't too hard, but still offer some funky moving.
Matjaž crushing it
me on Pune bombe/La la land

I had this cool mental game on La la land yesterday... I came up to Čreta wanting to play around on it a little bit. I tried it last year and found the crux quite desperate, especially after you already climb through the first crux (in the photo). I didn't really hope for much, I learned that often some expectations can ruin it for me. So I got on it and the crux didn't feel to bad - suddenly I was really psyched to try to send it. But in my second attempt, it felt much worse - I couldn't do the crux even by itself. It felt kinda depressing as all the psyche was gone, but then Izi had a really good go on it, fought hard and sent it! I was hesistant to give it another go, but decided to do so, kinda hoping for that little special moment that happens time to time... and it did. I'm not sure if it was the giant Snickers bar I had eaten before or just something else which had made the difference, this time at the crux (a killer dynamic move from a really poor crimp into a slopey undercling) I got that rare feeling of knowing that you WILL do it! I screamed, caught the undercling and heard some shouting from below, but didn't really notice it - the euphoria was kicking in :)

After pondering on it for a while when back on the ground, I concluded to myself that this is my drive in climbing, the addictive factor - this unexplainable, unexpectable way of turning the worst performance into your best one yet simply by making a shift in the mental approach, or whatever really, but definitely something which you can't bring up intentionally...

So after this cool, but short episode of Čreta climbing I'm psyched for more. Right now I'm at home dealing with school stuff but we've high hopes of making it out for the weekend again.

Shoutout to everybody involved, Jarm&Ana, Izi, Joži, Matjaž&Tamara, thanks to Nastja for getting me a lift, hope to see you all soon somewhere, preferably at the crag :) also thanks to Izi and Joži for the photos. You can read Izi's recap of the happening here. PEACE

.... the soundtrack for the sending mode :)