Wednesday, September 18, 2019

Marmolada in pictures



Marmolada south face, "the queen of Dolomites". The view from Malga d'Ombretta hides the actual proportions of this wall, which measures 900 metres in altitude and a few kilometres in width.
Curiosities at the Falier hut
back again on this super unique wall
the beloved bivvy in a World War 1 cavern with "Parete d'Argento" right above it

funky rock towers of Punta d'Ombretta and the funicular lift station
enjoying the smoothest, most compact limestone of our lives on "Glasperlenspiel"

We did Glasperlenspiel as an intro climb after the hike up. It turned out difficult enough! The guidebook from Maurizio Giordani uses the French scale to rate difficulties which has a bit of a sandbag effect, you can safely add a grade or two...

squeezing in "Glasperlenspiel", training for granite offwidths!

Mid-September had great temperatures for climbing in this south face. 
a big moon coming up over Monte Civetta
Another view of the spectacular, mighty Civetta north face

full moon clocking the time during a night spent on the face

an ascent of "Via Fortuna" earlier in the summer - it was here that daylight suddenly turned out too short
 David on the amazing first pitch of Excalibur, 6c climbing on vertical rock. With very little gear in situ, every pitch on such routes demands a good amount of focus and time looking for gear placements. Being able to climb such terrain using only removable protection feels like slowly piecing a puzzle - it is such a unique climbing experience, here to be found due to the exceptional rock quality and strict ethics that have preserved it mostly bolt-free.

Navigating across slabs on Excalibur. It must be one of the most exciting routes I've ever done - every pitch is unique and varied, the steepness of the wall unrelenting, with just enough features to make it climbable, while the difficulties never reach into the extreme.

One of the bouldery cruxes in Excalibur rated 7a, protected with two in-situ pitons, making it possible for an onsight ascent. Some climbers followed a strict free-climbing ethics of no aiding allowed - forbidding also the use of skyhooks for placing gear.

Me climbing towards the exit chimney of Excalibur. Runouts are common here, but the rock is nearly always very solid, permitting safe progression.

Rappelling down Specchio di Sara... goodbye Marmolada, we'll be back next year! 

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