Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Comps & Rocks!

Hey!
I had a blast out of the past weekend! As I said, on Saturday there was a national cup in Trbovlje which was great, since there hasn't been any comp for some time it was good to get back in the competing mood! I love how even in such comps which are basically not as important as some international ones, I can still get pretty nervous sometimes :P But it's always a positive kind of nervousness, it usually makes me climb even better!

So the comp was quite exhausting, I had to get up quite early (morning coffee always helps though!). I first climbed in my age group (Youth A), where me and my friend Vezi both fell off at the same move (beating the others by a fair amount of moves), although I was much closer to actually sticking it :D
So it was down to another route for us two, this time I managed to top it while he fell off a couple of moves earlier. Nice effort mate! We should also point out Domen Škofic who is the same age group was absent, otherwise winning would be even a bit harder!
Feeling confident and warmed up I went into the next route which was the seniors qualifiers. The route was quite my style so I managed to get up to the top, only to slip off at the last move! Still, I placed solid fourth which got me damn psyched for the finals!

The final route was more of a bouldery style, a lot of us fell at the same move, still, Urban, Izidor and Jernej (Kruder) managed to get past it. Big RESPECT for that, and big ups to Izi for winning his first seniors! Nice man!  I placed sixth in the end... not that bad anyway, at least I didn't slip off at the first move (yeah, been there done that!).

The next day we made a little trip to Vipavska Bela, a crag I've never been to before (which is a real shame, because it is amazing!). I was super fun, a whole crew had gathered (Kruder, Izi, Zorko, Timmy, Jure Gozd, Klemen Kejžar, Hribar, Luka Fonda the photographer and also the bouldering old school such as Šeli, Urh...). Izidor proved his shape by doing Dead moon, 8b+ on first redpoint, while the others were mainly not successful :P I was sieging a badass line called Povodni mož, 8b+ and I got quite close to doing it! Hopefully next time!

Kruder on the crux move of Povodni mož... TJULN! :D
I'd really like to get back to this crag because hanging out in the lower sector (by the river) is super cool... There's water running through small bowl-shaped ponds and big overhangs above :) it's also a bit warmer than here in the northwest, and it's kinda close to the sea so there's this terrific smell in the air, I love it :)
Izi in Dead moon and the crew below

I got home on Sunday evening feeling exhausted... but I love such weekends- and there's more to come! Fall season is on! Bring on Miška 2k11, WOOOHOO :D

Friday, September 23, 2011

The upcoming!

Just thought I would share this with you;
fall is coming (today is the last day of summer! Oh noes!) and I am getting super psyched on it. It brings colder temps, and with it different crags which have been put on hold for the summer! It means we will be spending the weekends in Mišja Peč, man I love that! There's just no better thing to do than hanging out with the regular crew beneath those freak bad-ass lines! There's loads of stuff I'd like to get on and/or finish off in this few months before the winter break!
As much as I love summer and all the fun it brings, fall is nice too :)
It does also bring school and some other unavoidable and possibly not-that-pleasant stuff, though. This means there's less time for clmbing, so we're forced to go back to the gym for a bit, which is good anyway as I'd like to get in some shape! There's no better thing than Poden when it comes to hardcore training!

Anyway, there's some comps coming up, starting tomorrow (!) with a national cup in Trbovlje! Syked for that! There's also two EYS comps still to go!

And last but definitely not least, me any my friend Vezi are doing a small trip to Fontainebleau in the end of October! I'm getting crazy about it by now already! Never did much bouldering but Font looks so magical I've been dying to go since ever. Should make for an amazing trip :) 25. October until 3. November, 7 days dans la foret!
Here's a little teaser :P

Monkee Family: Anthony Gullsten in Font from Alvi Pakarinen on Vimeo.

See y'all out somewhere! Oh and I'm keen for some feedback, don't hesitate to drop a line in the comments section!

Monday, September 19, 2011

Summer 2011... over already??

Summer 2k11 started crap for me, I injured the flexor tendon of my left ring finger... it felt depressing and it was looking grim for me. So after the EYS comp in Edinburgh (which I finished in 2nd place, my best result so far in EYS!), I was forced to a three weeks rest... Luckily the finger gradually got better, so I could take part in a training camp of Slovenia junior climbing team we had in Austria...
it was looking promising... until the finger said no!

Oh yeah forgot to mention it earlier, I am part of the junior team of Slovenia, and it's definitely one of the best things that have happened to me... It's always so much fun with these guys, they're like some of my best friends, and the team and the coaches have given me an excellent opportunity to train and improve in climbing... Also we have been in so many different places together, let it be comps or climbing trips... Certainly a big part of my climbing!

So we spent the first week of my holidays (in late June) in Austria, three vans of super syked people, we climbed on indoor walls as part of training for the EYS and WYC in Imst, also we managed to get a day outdoors! We went climbing in Zillertal and the day ended with the whole team beneath the famous line Total Brutal with all the guys sieging like crazy! At first it looked promising, sadly noone managed to bag the tick in the end!
After returning home the finger injury seemed to be reappearing, it hurt when I was climbing indoors but on rocks it was OK! And we know rock has healing properties... me and my coaches agreed it was time for some rock climbing... yeah man :D
My favourite view (Petite Ceuse seen from the crag).

My father was leaving for France for a bussines trip and I seized the opportunity and got him to drop me off in Gap. What followed was the most amazing two weeks ever! I stayed alone in the Ceuse camping, but needless to say I was never bored! It's one of my favourite places to be, the campground is full of climbers from everywhere, and the cliff above is just amazing. The daily routine was get up late, have a cuppa with the British lads (Sam, Ed, Luke, Ethan, Ted, Kitty... big ups crew!), make the torturing walk-in and climb until dark! I managed some good ascents, the highlights in terms of grades were L'ami de tout le monde and Le chirurgien du crepuscule, both 8b on redpoint, and an onsight ascent of Encore, 8a+ (the endurance testpiece... pumpy motherbitch!). Along with many other five star lines! I love the climbing in Ceuse as every route is just so perfect!
Le chirurgien du crepuscule, 8b (photo by Robbie Phillips)... an amazing line to tick! Team send with Luke :)

photo from last year's trip to Ceuse... man I love this place!
Besides the British I made friends with so many other people, first off thanks to Robbie and Nat and other Scots for picking me up in Gap (and the pictures as well!), there was a whole gang of crazy French guys (Augustin, Thomas, Alban, Francois, Julien, Rodrigue, Enzo the mutant et beaucoup des autres!), some Belgians (Seb, Mathilde, Pascal... thank you for a nice evening :D), I even got invited over for a dinner with the Irish climbers who were staying at the gite! That was a nice evening! There were many others, the Canadians Julien, Yannick, Corinne (those pancakes in the morning... ahh!!), the German speaking Italians (don't recall the names)... Surely I forgot some others, sorry about that! Fact is, all of you guys made me feel like at home! Big ups!
with the crew in Gap on a rainy day!

After 14 days in Ceuse I moved to Briancon (thanks to Uroš and Mojca!) to meet a part of the junior team who came to compete in the French national cup. Needless to say, they kicked asses, winning three gold medals (Milan, Tina and Jera)... on French home turf! Nice :D! We stayed in the area for a week, doing some climbing in smaller crags in the valley and cheering for the senior team who did the World Cup a few days later (amazing performance by Maja & Mina who came first and second! Strong ladies!).
We wrapped it up in style with a good party after the World Cup final and I got home on the 31st of July. Possible best three weeks ever?
back to plastic! Photo by Luka Fonda


In August I tried to focus on indoor training, there were two comps in Imst coming up. I finished both the EYS and WYC in a slightly disappointing 16th place, I was hoping to make at least the finals in both comps! I guess I just wasn't fit enough. The rest of the team made up for it, the highlight was obviously Jure Razresen and Domen Škofic becoming world youth champions. RESPECT guys! The whole world youth championship was just amazing! Slovenia Junior Climbing team proved once again to be one of the best teams ever! The team spirit is sooo good!
best team ever!

After returning home from Austria on 28th of August, the summer wasn't over yet! I took the chance to make a short, 4-day trip to Magic Wood with a part of the junior team. It was meant to be like some sort of training for the two EYS bouldering comps that have just been on, and although I wasn't selected for the bouldering team, I could still come along. Thanks coaches :)

So we spent 4 days running around the woods bouldering like crazy, I got a bit unlucky and fell over on wet ground which resulted in a bad, 2+ meter fall on my back... It hurt really bad, but it's OK now, so no broken bones! It did feel like it at the start though -.- The whole team managed some amazing ascents, up to 8A! Myself, I was happy with ticking two 7Cs with a badly sore back! Never really been a boulderer anyway :D I do enjoy it though!
Jure Raztresen wrestling the Kalorienmonster!
 After this trip it was time to wrap it up! I am now in my last year of school and I am firmly decided on finishing high school with excellent grades! School has always been important to me, but I've always found ways to do it along with going climbing, and I want to keep it that way! So now it's back to the gym for me, back to the daily routine, hoping to get an odd day going rock climbing here and there...
It has really been one amazing summer :)

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Hello world

Hey everyone,
so this is my first blog post. I decided to start writing a blog so all the people I ever met, climbed with or anyone else who might be interested could follow me. It should also serve as a place where I can recount the stories from trips, competitions and other cool stuff :) And to let people know where I am headed next!

I think so much has happened to me in the past few years since I've been really dedicated to climbing, I have always considered starting a blog so I could write it down, let other people hear the stories. Most of the adventures really have been about climbing, but in fact this blog is going to be about whatever I find fun or interesting. So that could be many things. I'll try to keep attracting, probably some stuff will be left out by mistake, some other things you might not dig, it might end soon although I hope it won't, anyways, let's get started :) Hopefully I can find inspiration to write often enough!

I think even though the summer is coming to an end, I should make a short summary of it. It has been such an amazing time and if I only could I would rewind back to the first of June and let it all happen again! Anyway, it should be an introductory to the blog, so the potential reader could get a picture.


Note: the title of the blog comes from a book I read recently, and I think it fits perfectly. The white line of chalk is what we are following, climbers - we are always flocking to the popular crags in search of our next best line, probably all covered in chalk, but still it has its charm, I guess it's the PSYCHE! Also, the "white line" from the book title refers to taking amphetamine... Sometimes I feel my life is like that, even though I haven't had any! It's usually when I'm setting off on a trip :D

Peace out guys