Monday, February 20, 2012

Pinticlimbs vs. the Hard Grit

Every good journalist knows the bad news sells. So, only to attract your attention, a typical image of UK climbing that most of us euro lactic acid-pumping tufa-huggers see when we hear "UK... climbing... grit" yeah, it's a prejudice, I know. Anyway, don't watch this if you're of the sensitive kind!


I'm leaving for Sheffield in a couple of hours for a week of climbing in the heart of the British climbing spirit, in a place full of climbing history and a really strong local climbing scene, as well as the notorious ethics in free climbing!
I'm psyched to find out about the above statements as I reckon climbing in the UK is not all about getting scared shitless as you're about to deck from 10 metres high, of course they're big in bouldering AND they have some limestone sport crags as well (hmm, maybe something for me after all?). Seriously, I'm into anything, really, so I'm curious what it's going to be.
I'll be staying at my friends who are really psyched for climbing so I think there's an adventure ahead. Stay tuned if you like it :)

peace

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Looking back at...

Yo people,
I just stumbled upon this video, apparently somebody shot the finals of the EYS in Kranj. It's fun to see how desperately pumped I got. Definitely shit climbing, I think. I was happy with the fight, though, as you can see I was almost coming off at the half of the route. Big thanks to the guy who did the video!

European Youth Cup 2011, Kranj - Youth A from Žiga Janež on Vimeo.

Today, I'll be attending the second stage of NLP bouldering league, I'm psyched for the comp, seeing the people again and some intriguing boulders. Had a massive Poden session yesterday though, so I may be slightly tired but fuck it.

What I also wanted to write about is the new gym that has opened its doors recently in Mitterdorf, Austria (near Vienna). It was a project of Robert Ernst, the father von Johanna Ernst, the wunderkind of Austria.
I feel this was worth a mention because the gym is something I have never seen before. Kletterakademie Mitterdorf is MASSIVE. The main climbing wall is sooo big, it must be about 17 meters high, the whole wall is covered in brand new, top quality holds, there must be at least 40 routes in the 8th degree, they're pretty well set, there's a huge bouldering wall... basically everything is huge there! And along with the typical austrian perfectionism, it guarantees a full climbing experience. There's so much stuff to do, you could spend days climbing there and not run out of routes. Anyway, we'll be back :)!

Peace people, thanks for checking in. I hope for good weather&free time&a lot of climbing for all of you :)

Friday, February 3, 2012

DON'T SLEEP!

Hey!
A couple of things have happened the past two weeks!
I went climbing to Mišja Peč before-last Sunday (ok, so this was... 22. January, my blog is lagging behind!), it was an amazing day, the weather was cloudy and there was no crowds, only people you know and some friends (Domen, Gregor, Nace). I found myself pretty exhausted from the trainings of the previous days and didn't really send anything!

I checked out Nočna kronika, an 8b going all the way to the top of the crag. I did an alzheimer onsight of the first pitch (7c+) which felt pretty easy, and then I went on to check out the top. It goes on with another five bolts and a pretty decent crux of about 6 moves, then you get to a pretty good rest, and then a few hard moves to reach the anchor. The second part is really good, the moves are so pure, the rock has perfectly sculpted holds (like most of the top part of the crag, you can really tell the difference between different parts). I had another go, but I felt really tired so it didn't go well. I hope to get back to it soon and send it! hmm psyched!

On Tuesday, there was a ceremony held by PZS, the climbing association, for the best sport climbers and alpinists of the past year. I was selected as an Upcoming young climber (like the last three years :P) along with some other guys from the Youth team. Mina Markovič and Klemen Bečan were voted the best sport climbers of year 2011. Big respect!
almost like last year :D big ups guys!


On Thursday, I did the first competition this year! It was the high school cup, where we represented the schools we go to instead of our home clubs/countries or whatever :P well this comp always happens in January when we're all only getting into shape again, and it's always in the same place, on some old climbing wall in Ljubljana which is not really big, the routes are always kinda the same, but... it's fun! And you get to miss out a day in school which is always welcome! I placed third after Domen Škofic and Sergej Epih and was pretty happy with the climbing! Didn't feel weak despite a heinous campus board session the previous day! Plus, your name is mentioned in the school news and then all the pretty girls are after you... well, not really, but ok.

On Saturday, I went to another competition, it's called NLP and it's a sort of a bouldering league that will take place four times in two of Ljubljana's bouldering gyms. The atmosphere is a lot more relaxed, the people are there to enjoy the vibe and not for competing, and you get about 30 really well set boulders (respect to Urh for some really good ones!) to qualify, while the finals get really hard... I think I came about 5th place, doesn't really matter! After the finals, we watched the new movie by Rok Klančnik, it's a really cool 30-minute documentary about their trip to Rocklands last summer! Big ups to the guy for producing such a masterpiece! Check out the trailer and don't miss it when it's on at the IMFF!


Climber's Journal: ROCKLANDS // teaser from Rok Klančnik on Vimeo.

So a lot of stuff's been going down, and February looks promising too :) more on that next time, also about our Russian friend Sasha who's staying at our place and is turning into a proper beast! Driving licence soon! A trip coming up! The youth team coming together tomorrow for the first time in new year! Training hard! Training HARDDDD!!! It's what we need! PSYCHED!
peace out people, DON'T SLEEP!