Monday, December 31, 2012

2k12 RECAP!

Yo all
so the year's coming to an end and what better way there is to finish it off than a good session of rock climbing in the sun with friends! I visited Osp today with Ajda, Asja&Luka, we enjoyed summer temps while the rest of Slovenia stayed in fog :)
The highlight of today was definitely onsighting Fantastic voyage, 8a/a+ which felt absolutely fantastic, it's this thing that happens every now and then and makes you go into a 100% focus, then it's just sit back and press play... for me this was the culmination of last month's climbing efforts which included two more 8a onsights in Osp/Mišja Peč, something I thought wouldn't happen at all. It's interesting that I am doing these routes now even though my training in the gym is maybe 20% of what I used to do and I can feel that my endurance is not at the same level as it used to be... apparently other things make up for it and that's what makes me really psyched about my climbing, it makes me believe 8b OS will happen one day and so will 8c+ RP and all... pushing limits basically :)

me in Zadnja skušnjava, a few weeks ago (photo by Barbara :))

it was warm yesterday :)

photo by Ajda

Izidor doing Veper lady 8b for his 198th 8th grade :P

So yeah today was just as it should have been for a finish to an amazing year. 2012 has been definitely the most intense and fun yet! Both in the climbing sense and otherwise, I've gone on some cool trips, England, Macedonia and above all the month in France with my friend Izi! There's been some ups and downs but all in all a bunch of new experiences...

My 8a.nu scorecard says
2x8c
2x8b+
13x8b
9x8a+ (2 OS)
26x8a (6 OS)

I feel like my rock climbing level has definitely gone up a bit! Plus there's the projects left unfinished that I am sure will go one day, if all goes well then I might just leave for a trip in the summer, come back super fit and just do all of them like Chris Sharma (or maybe some of them).

 2012 has also seen me as a coach in the local gym which is something I really enjoy! It's really fun working with these guys as they are very motivated!

There's some inspiring videos I came across lately and I think they're worth watching:



The Secret 8c from Društvo ŠMOCL www.tvlasko.si on Vimeo.


May 2013 be as good as 2012 has been for all of you... for myself I hope there will be plenty of hardcore climbing going down, that the recent studying will pay off in the future and maybe above all that the uni doesn't ruin my climbing and social life :)
 Also I'd really like to keep this blog running and have some interesting stuff to post, which is basically related to the above :) 

So finally a BIG shoutout and THANKS to everybody who read this blog, everybody I've been out climbing with, all the people that made trips so special, my (ex) coach Roman for helping me go from 6a's to the 8th grade, the Poden team and their syke for training, the guys I'm coaching - thanks for being patient, all the friends in climbing; the British crew and their brews, Izidor for going on trips with me, and everybody else I forgot about- in no way this is in order of importance, I love you all :)

p. s. some cool tunes too




Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Comps, rocks and more comps

Yo people
so I haven't updated this place for a while now and it's a real shame! So much stuff has happened over the past few weeks. November was really intense! I don't think December will be any different due to school work but at least the comps are over and I can go for some more climbing in rock!
Kranj was the place to be: first the World Cup, then European youth series and nationals to finish off. The WC was an amazing show as always: the finals are always SOO rad and it gets you damn psyched to go training hard. Those guys are such mutants! The biggest mutant of Kranj was Jakob Schubert who won with a decent margin, and obviously Mina Markovič who took the victory in females to make the home crowd go ecstatic. The only shame is Slovenia didn't have any finalists in men, I was really hoping for my friends Urbič and Škofla, but it didn't work out (Urban was 9th, damn!). Congrats anyway :)
We topped it off with a nice partey for everybody involved and I'd say it was well nuts. Good times were had all around :)

I did stick to the tradition and had a visit to Mišja Peč on that Saturday, I had a good day out with my mate Luka! I surprised myself with an onsight of Iglu, 8a which makes it the first onsight of this grade in Mišja, something I didn't really expect to happen. THe ascent was perfect- the route is 100% my style and when I lowered off I was wondering if I had actually got on the right route?? Good times once again for sure :)

I took part in both EYS and nationals and ended up 9th in both... I'm quite happy since I barely managed to squezee in the final and also my climbing was actually really good, I think I'm just not as fit as I used to be. Both comps were great fun, I saw my friends after a while and all... The week between the WC and EYS my good friends Ed an Luke stayed in Slovenia and we had some fun times, a sick sick gym session on Monday (since we were full of power after the party) and it was great to hang out. I caught up on all of Luke's adventures; lately he's been travelling a lot and it's so inspiring to listen to all that he's been up to.
And I had a nice lunch and coffee with Tina and Amanda in Ljubljana - Amanda is now staying in Leeds for her gap year and I was psyched when she invited me over. I feel this might as well happen in the future, given that the uni permits!

Also, all these guys are an enormous source of psyche which then makes me go climbing when I'm feeling really beat up from the uni and all. Lately, I've done quite a bit of coaching in my gym - always in the evening, and then had a session myself! Really good training!And also I'm really getting into the coaching - it's the perfect job, I think :P

And then last but not least, the final shot of motivation was the trip to Mišja Peč this Sunday with Izi, Bizi and Petra... the weather was shit, it was cold and conditions were grim: rain, snow on the roads... But the climbing went well! Zupanator onsighted Galaktika, 8a or 8a+ and I followed in flash mode. Then we heard some inhuman screaming and later found out Ruben Firnenburg sent Strelovod, 8c (and his friend Jakob did it the day before). Then I had a try in Konec mira, 8c/c+ and it was the first time I could do the moves... Yep that's it: I've unlocked the crux to connect all the routes into the one that binds them all... Martin Krpan, 9a.

Joke, I don't really mean to work this thing, but for a long time I thought the crux was impossible for me. I know it might take a long time to maybe send Konec mira, and a whole lot of endurance, but still... the moves went, it's now possible! And realizing this is what is psyching me out of my brain!

PEACE to everybody involved, congrats to all the competitors, thanks to Lovro Grom for letting me train hard in his laboratory (we'll be back!), and to all of you... GO BIG!