Saturday, December 21, 2013

Becoming pro :)

Hey all,
I'm happy to present to you the promised footage of my ascent of Privid, 8c, back in September! Big shoutout and massive thanks to Tomi and Domen for the shooting and editing and Eva for giving me a belay :)! I hope you enjoy it! Maybe we'll make more in the future (if I will send anything, that is :D). It was a fun process, from first trying the route to putting together this movie. Makes me long for summer again!

Also, I'm proud to be able to say that I've been granted my first official sponsorship! Iglu Šport, the leading outdoor gear supplier in Slovenia with some 20+ years of presence in the market will be supplying me with my favourite climbing shoes' brand, La Sportiva. This has been wishful thinking ever since I've started climbing a lot (and thus using lots of shoes). Most of the time I've had to compromise between my shoes of choice and what I could get at the store/quality of the shoes. La Sportiva simply fits me best (especially the heel - other shoes are usually fine except the heel). I'm so psyched on this, thanks a lot to Iglu Šport :)

I'm off for a session at the gym now! YEAAA

Saturday, December 14, 2013

A day in Mišja Peč

Yeah so the news spreads fast through the social networks, but still, today made such a nice story it deserves a post here.

I was lucky to witness one of the few proper low gravity days in the year. Conditions were perfect, sunny with a slight breeze which made even the polished, worn-out limestone feel sticky. It wasn't crowded, actually there was a bunch of people you'd know and that was it. Everybody was going hard at their projects: Domen Škofic impressively finished off his projects, Sanjski par 9a and Človek ne jezi se, 8c+. I've seen him cruise both routes and the guy is just on a different level! Good sending in your Spain trip mate! Kruder sent the long-ass Vizija, 8c which is impressive as well, he cruised it because he's really strong (only sometimes gets pumped). I was getting on the line next to it, Karizma 8b+ (a bloody hard one, too!) and made some good links which is psyching me up, I could definitely feel the progression and it will go down next time, I'm pretty happy cause I didn't feel too bad after a month of very little actual climbing. Jera Jelenc ticked Samsara and so did Jernej Vidmar, congrats to both! All in all it was so nice seeing people tick and there was a great vibe in the air. Thanks to everybody for the vibe and Luka, Sabina, Kruder and Aljaž for the company. Peace.
So relaxing after a few weeks spent in the cold foggy Ljubljana! I'm hoping for more days like this it's really all I need! Trying hard high above the deck in perfect weather... it's what makes us tick! Despite the psyche we all feel about the new climbing gym, Plezalni center, it will always remain only an imitation of the real thing. It's good to get a few days like this every now and then... if you're doing it all the time you don't even notice it but lacking it makes you appreciate it so much more when you finally get to do it :)

Peace out and have a good week everybody. Hope to see you all at the crag soon :)

Kruder high on Vizija!

Saturday, December 7, 2013

A month of competing

We are only days away from the opening of Slovenia's biggest climbing gym, Plezalni center Ljubljana! In the last month or so, I've had the chance to participate in setting the routes and boulder problems. We started when the workers from the Nubs wall company were still putting up the walls and now we've still got some 30 routes to go until all is set for the grand opening next Tuesday.
Seeing it progress from a huge building of only bare concrete walls into a full-scale climbing gym full of colourful and exciting climbing routes has been making me more psyched about it every day. I am sure there's many climbers out there feeling the same, we can't wait for it to open and we get down a proper training sessions! And a MASSIVE shoutout/thanks to all everybody who has invested or helped with the gym, above all Matjaž&Matjaž, David, Nina and everybody else, for making the dreams come true for all off us. I jumped on the train rather late but I'm happy to have shared my part! It's gonna be HUGE :D

hmm many holds to play with :)

there will be 110 routes on the main wall...  some hard ones too :)

So it's been a hectic last month! The setting at the Center has been loads of fun and I've tried to spend as much time there. I haven't been out rock climbing which is a bit of a shame but I'm kinda planning a little trip out to Spain which I am so hopeful of, provided that everything goes well with the exams at uni I should have three weeks off in January so I could get away... Time to commit and get things done :D!

I have, however, taken advantage of the good shape I've had since the hardcore climbing summer and took part in a few competitions. It was cool to do it after a period of no competing, my approach has changed a lot since I haven't been training for it specifically.

I found that no matter how mentally strong you are as a serious competitor (something I've always felt pretty confident about), doing a competition with literally zero preparation for it does change your perspective and the pressure you feel. On the other hand, I did somehow feel that my ascents outdoor do have some ground in a good physical shape and thus automatically had at least a little expectations (and felt appropriately disappointed after having fucked up in two comps).

Anyway, here's how it went:
last week of October we had nationals in Tržič. I placed fourth in a slightly weakened competition (some people went bouldering to Macedonia :P). I gave both routes a very good go, but I think they also suited me well being more endurance-y.

next were the nationals in Škofja Loka. I barely managed the finals but then fucked up proper, didn't feel too motivated either :/ good thing is I didn't feel much frustration.

Next up and the main goal was the World Cup in Kranj. It was the first WC I ever did and after having a really good run in both qualification routes in missed the semifinals by a narrow margin of one place. It would have been nice to be in the semis but above all I was super content with a result that I'd never expected. I think the routes really fit me (I was surprised, I expected them to be much much harder) and I had this good feeling which made it all easier. This is the problem with comps... in route climbing outdoors you may have some good or bad or mediocre days and it will all even out in the end... In comps your performance should be peaking on that exact day, or even hour. Apparently I  got lucky with that this time :)

Last was the nationals in Kranj. I sucked in both boulder and lead and it was kinda shitty. But overall that's 2 out of 4 comps that went pretty good :) Big ups to Slovenia climbing team for having me on for the WC, big ups to everybody in the competitons, my friends from elsewhere who came to Kranj and everybody who cheered on us!
Who knows what next year's season brings now that my ambitions have grown slightly again... I'm better off training now... HAHA :) not until Plezalni center opens its doors :)
setting off for route nr.2, thanks to Luna for the pic

getting pumpeeed

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Autumn sending days

Yo all,
ok so here it is! Finally I get to update this blog, I've been keen on it since my motivation for climbing is shooting high again after a while, but I've been a little lazy in the self-promotion aspect. The end of summer and the coming of fall have marked a nice period in my climbing as I've been getting out lots and also doing some nice sends/going places!
I just got back home from a nice one day trip to Pandora with Klemen, Ema and David. I've been missing out on this crag for too long... we didn't really pick the best time to visit as the burning sun made us sweat like hell, the shoes soon felt uncomfortable and the sending mode wasn't really on in general. I went head-first into Avatar hoping for an onsight, but stupidly missed the entry and tried out The Blob, 8c - which turned out to be an awesome route. Later on I was too tired for Avatar though :( I did however manage to onsight an 8a called Naytiri and Dave dispatched Chin check, 7c. The crag is so crazy cool with the perfect rock, routes with great moves and high level roof climbing, plus there's a hole in the roof, I'm psyched to come back soon when the temps drop a bit!
Avatar! epic route

I'm psyched to get a few days out this week... the start of uni and life in Ljubljana have slightly stalled my climbing again. But it's been exciting! Recently we've begun work in the new climbing gym of Ljubljana, Plezalni center. It should open sometime in December, it will be grande and proper awesome, words can't describe how psyched people are on it... We're doing our best to set some nice boulder problems and routes for everyone to test their skills and enjoy a good vibe sessioning it out with friends. More about the Center to come... stay tuned!
legendary buhtelj... with a twist!

decisions... i stole the pics off the page, thanks to Dave :)
The last weekend I did the national competition in Tržič and had a good time since I managed to pull off a nice performance that put me in 4th place in the end! I was getting pumped too hard cause I haven't really been training endurance indoor, but I was well rested and without expecting much, it kinda worked. Props to Urban for winning and Domen and Sergej taking 2nd and 3rd place!

I'm psyched to have earned the chance to climb in the Kranj World Cup in two weeks time! I've never done a World Cup and I'm very intimidated by it, but at the same time it should be fun just to try! It's just that now I'm kinda facing a dillema, whether or not to try and get in a better shape! 14 days isn't much, but a few hardcore sessions and losing a kilo may well help. Then again, any serious training also means committing yourself and expecting a payoff... and I know well expecting too much can ruin the while thing for me.

Equally as fun were the days we've recently spent in our beloved Osp! It's that time of the year again... climbers are flocking to Osp. I took sixth place in Janez Jeglič memorial with 12minutes 59 seconds in the huge Goba race (an overhanging multipitch route climbed with a 200 meter toprope) which didn't feel bad at all! Domen Škofic took the victory even despite it was his first appearance in the comp.
Another epic moment was when I managed to send Konec mira, an 8c/c+ route in Mišja Peč. It felt so hard some time ago... now it was only a matter of being well rested and having a good day out with some friends cheering for me! Now that I've done the most of the overhanging routes in the right part of the crag, it's time to focus on a mega badass line in the middle. Those routes were always the real challenge for me as they're much more complex and require good crimping, whereas 'Hladilnik' is mostly about power-endurance.
last year's send: Matičkov svet, 8b. Damnit there will always be projects to go at in Osp...

And last but not least, I've had two days out climbing some old-school ultra classic slabs in Bohinjska Bela. I managed an onsight of Literarni nokturno, 8a which made me well psyched and came super close to Adria, 7c+ in the onsight. Both routes are superb and I think it's a shame how nowadays some strong climbers don't like or don't appreciate this style of climbing. Ok, well actually I just called it oldschool, too but... slabs are COOL!

trying Via facti, 7c+

two climbers on the same wall with the infamous Boj za užitek, 8b+, the white-streak line between them

Ok so that's it! To sum up, I am psyched and it's time to make the most out of it. I am planning a trip in the future and the plan is too big to fail... Big ups to everybody who was part of the crew! Shoutout to my mates and my sister currently in Macedonia, I love you guys but hate not coming along this time.
Vipavska Bela tomorrow! Onwards!

Sunday, September 15, 2013

A new chapter

Hey all
I have spent the two last weeks in crags around Slovenia and chilling in Ljubljana and at home. I've been thinking about another climbing trip somewhere, but the bussines at home has proved to be exciting too. I've had a few sessions indoors which made me feel even stronger and with the approaching start of a new year of studies there was things to take care of in Ljubljana.

that line!

First off was a great three days' stay in Kotečnik. On my first day I was feeling extremely light and energized which permitted me to climb both Stigmata, 8b+/c and Katakombe, 8b+ while feeling there's still power to spare. Along with these two I ticked Divji mož and Divjo otrok, both 8a, on my warmup. Both 8b+ses are good routes but my favourite is still Umazana igra. The other two days I got stuck into working Iluzija, an 8c which is a contender for the best route of Kotečnik and feels like a solid grade harder than the two 8b+! In fact it felt really hard, but possible at the same time and I'm really psyched to get on it again when I visit, well rested and fit!
last time on Stigmata

Then after a stint of bad weather I was back to my main goal for this summer, Privid in Bohinjska bela. My story with this route has been going for two years and I've written about it here before. This time it felt much better than two weeks ago, I was feeling light and agile. I knew I was approaching the right state of body and mind which would permit me to send. Encouraged by Miha and Anže (thanks guys ^^!), I had two great attempts which both felt like I was going to send... sadly I didn't, but I wasn't too frustrated - I was only hoping to get back to it before the rain strikes again.
Luckily I managed to get back two days later to find the crag full of familiar faces. The atmosphere was right, I'd found my belayer and I knew it was time to send. I set off and managed to pull off a great attempt, making no mistakes and keeping it together through all the hard moves, to clip the chains of Privid! I was super happy and above all content to have finished off something I was once already so close to doing, then other times it felt so so hard.
Somehow though I don't feel it justifies for 8c+... I was in a bit of a dilemma but I believe it's more of a hard 8c, but it's hard to take into account the style of the route which suited me pretty well. Anyway, it's done and I'm super happy, it's an entry to the next level for my climbing - it's definitely my hardest yet even if I don't think it deserves 8c+. I hope we can do another photo- or video session on it to showcase this truly amazing line up the wall.

Also marking a new chapter in my life is the fact that as of September I'm temporarily residing in Ljubljana! Living closer to my school, new job opportunity, a new climbing scene to get to know and integrate into, meeting two great guys with mutual mindset and moving away from home have culminated in this nice and super cosy flat we have got for us. It's not really economically viable, and it may result in less climbing trips, but whatever, I am super excited on the new life, a change after leading the same lifestyle for some years now and it might help me get to know more about myself and what my pursuit in life really is. I am also proud to say I've been taken on the Društvo za razvoj plezalne kulture coaching team which I see as a great opportunity for working with younger climbers and transferring some of my knowledge (if there's anything useful). I hope I will live up to the responsibility :)

work @ Stena... psyched for some sessions soon!

Then after a short break from rocks, during which we worked and climbed at Stena in Ljubljana (a great place I like to go - there's always a good session going on, and I was keen to help and be part of the community), my last trip to rock was yesterday with Miha, Lucija and my sister Nada. We enjoyed the perfect temperatures and great ambiance in Vipavska Bela, everyone ticked off a few nice routes (well excpet for me - I was feeling super strong but failed to send anything, oh well). The crag has apparently got a 'face-lift' (nice stairs on the approach, benches everywhere... feels really cosy) by the local climbing community and is now even more suitable and pleasant for a day out with family or friends or even kids, regardless of what grade you're climbing in.

Miha doing great on a 6c+...

Vipavska Bela still a bit wet...

I came really close to Povodni mož, 8b+, it's a bit of a longtime project now but yesterday it was the wet holds (good excuse)

For the next two weeks I am hoping for some nice weather and good times at the crag in general... so psyched for the forthcoming! PEACE out everybody, stay strong!

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Timeless summer

Hey everybody
so it's been two weeks already since I've got home from my climbing trip, yet I haven't posted anything in my blog. I was too lazy for the self-promotion and I didn't bring any camera to this trip (and I always like to post some pics too), but I am finding out the blog is a pleasant occupation for myself too, as it's nice to look back and reflect on the memorable events that happened along the way. What follows is a recap of the last part of my trip and the time I've spent cragging in Slovenia... I've no job, no uni exams or particular life neccesities to take care of, so it seems like life right now is afloat in timeless space, no particular direction to head in, time's lost meaning... But the thing I'm realizing is that even though I naturally tend to try to make the most of my time and the opportunities at hand (seeing life itself as a big opportunity) - a logical consequence of how I was raised up and the system we live in - climbing is this irrational activity that I don't need to justify to myself with potential benefits or whatever. All you get is cut fingertips and bruised knees and worn out shoes stacking up in you wardrobe... but hey we're still doing it all the time.

The last two weeks of the trip I spent in one of my favourite places on earth, Ceuse. The crag itself needs no describing I believe...
It was my fourth time here, so it felt a lot like returning to a local place you know well... but time and time again I amazed by it. Just sitting under the cliff, high above the normal life in the valley fills you with inner peace and satisfaction. The climbing is the most aesthetic you can get and I love it.
This time I didn't tick that much (I am running out of routes in my comfort zone-grades), but I did two routes that count for much in my climbing log-book.
First was Arque type, a slabby 8b in Berlin sector which was a project from last year (when I had to leave it with the bitter taste of defeat in my mouth). The effort I put in sending this and the beauty of rock definitely puts it among my most memorable ascents.
The other was La chronique de la haine ordinaire, a 25 metres overhanging 8c in Biographie. This one is not as prized for beauty as some of the other 8c's here (which are all on the to-do list), it has some chipped holds in the starting boulder (even though the rest is super nice climbing), but I didn't care. It fit my style and I was psyched to have unlocked the hard climbing in Biographie sector. It's just so intimidating with its 8c's adn Biographie, the route itself... Definitely pysched for more one day (when I'm fitter ^^)!

I love the laidback lifestyle in Ceuse and the friendly climber atmosphere in the camping. It's part of what makes it so special for me...even the walk up starts to seem like "yeah, we're training" instead of "fuck me, why are we doing this!" when everybody is psyched for the climbing above. Climbing a muerte each day and the pasta diet makes you feel healthy and after a few days you feel how you're becoming fitter (and you feel like a machine when you get back home ^^). But above all it's sharing the nice moments below the wall. I love the little chatting when you're tying in and a guy you know crosses your path - after a few days you get the impression you know everybody at the cliff and you reall feel "at home".

A big shout-out to everybody who made this year's stay at Ceuse so nice! Anja, Dominik and Jakob, the Slovenian team that I climbed with for some time (before they left for bouldering in Italy), Lea, Mauwe and Nico from Grenoble (thanks for the betas and lessons in French ^^), Clemens, Yelmar and Joannes from the camping for all the belays and nice dinners, Franz the swiss machine... I love you all guys! See you next year :D

I finished the trip with a return home vie hitchhike, which I decided upon earlier (I wanted to do the whole route by hitching). This proved to be a tiring, but amazing feat and in the end a real heart-warming experience... The generosity and kindness of some people is infinite and I think it's important to have something like this to remind you of it from time to time... in fact I did most of the travelling on this trip alone and I find it fascinating how there's always people who will help you out when you're in trouble!

The days after my return (it's been two weeks now) I have used for seeing my family and friends from uni (also some celebrating of various occasions ^^), dealing with the forthcoming start of uni-life, reading books and making the best of my time even just by peaceful contemplation.
But there's rock waiting for me in Slovenia, too. I have had two days on my project in Bohinjska bela, Privid (stay tuned for this people!) and did some climbing in Kotečnik. I am psyched on the new potential, the Čreta project and rocks in Bohinj area. I attended Grapafest which was a great event, big respect and thanks to the guys who made the effort! After all it's nice to be back ^^
good times in d'Grapa

Kotečnik is calling for another visit to get things done... here are some photos from last time when I was climbing with Luka and Slatnska banda (Bizi, Miha, Petra).
getting angry on Stigmata (8b+/c)
Bizi the machine got close to Umazana igra... and for me it's Stigmata and Katakombe on the project list! Soon!

Bizi on Umazana igra (8b+)
Cheers everybody thanks for reading, see you all out there! Get psyched for the approaching good weather! Time to go and send!

Monday, July 29, 2013

Tout a Blocs and return to rainy Ceuse!

Hey all!
Time for a post about my little trip this summer! I've been slacking with updates, mainly because not much has happened (yet) in terms of hard climbing :P since I've left Frankenjura, I've stayed a few days in Briancon (thanks to Markus Jung who picked me up in Grenoble after we'd accidentally meet through a carsharing website :D) where I met up with my friends Jakob, Dominik and Anja. We watched the World Cup competition which was amazing as every year and had some good climbing  in the crags around the place. A big shoutout to my friend Domen Škofic who finally got to display his talent on a large scale, taking an amazing 4th place in the final! I am so psyched to see my friends with whom we used to train in the gym together climbing so well, deservedly so after all the hard work put in at the gym (while the others drink beer and live the dirtbag life... :D)
 The Briancon area always amazes me with its diversity of rock types and climbing styles in such a small range of kilometres. We enjoyed some nice long routes on limestone in Grand Bois in les Ecrins, it's a nice, quiet place with the best view possible. The routes have a little downside for me since there's some chipped holds here and there, usually at the cruxes, so in this sense Ceuse still ranks at the top of my favourite French crags. But often you come across a real beauty of a route, and in any case it was nice workout after the intense WC afterparty! We also climbed on granite boulders of Ailefroide and gneiss walls in Entraygues, and checked out for the first time the very cool single-pitch routes sector in Ailefroide called Face bouc (similar style to Entraygues).
Here in Face bouc I managed an ascent of La proue, 8a+, in Entraygues I had some goes in San Ku Kai, the ex-9a now given 8c+ which at first got me really psyched because I could do the moves (and also because it's great to climb), but linking it proved a little tougher... Maybe one day ^^
otherwise I've done a few 8a's so I'm getting super psyched for the projects in Ceuse! Today we intended to have our first day up there but the unexpected rain ruined it for us. The meteo looks much better for the days after so motivation is still high :) and I plan to stay for a few weeks... :)

The Tout a Blocs was a nice experience, too. For those who've never heard of it, it's an annual boulder meeting in L'Argentiere, just next to Briancon. This year it combined an European youth Cup (Dominik and Anja did it, big ups for the efforts!) and a French bouldering comp which was open for other nations, too (so they did it too, while me and Jakob escaped the heat and went to Entraygues). The finals of the latter were amazing to watch - it was a great atmosphere, a big crowd cheering loud and interesting problems for the best six guys and girls. Between the two comps there was a meeting outdoors in Ailefroide which we attented and had a cool day climbing boulders and meeting some new French friends. All in all it was great to experience it and it surely makes me want to see it again :)
Ailefroide bouldering :)

the evening finals... it was PACKED and a great atmosphere!

Hoping for good weather and loads of endurance now! We're off to Ceuse tomorrow! ALLEEEEEEEZ!

Thursday, July 18, 2013

The Frankenjura experience

Hello everybody,
the first leg of the trip is over :) after spending three nights in Prague a set of events brought me to Bavaria in southern Germany. I met up with my friends, Klemen and Ema, who were kind enough to give me a short introduction to the Frankenjura!

The Jura is a historic climbing area which was the birthplace of the redpoint and the playground of climbing heroes such as Wolfgang Gullich, Kurt Albert and many others. Back in the 1980's and 1990's it was here that limits were pushed with ascents such as Wall street and most notably, Action Directe.
The place is well known for it's hard, bouldery style. Most of routes are comparatively short and climb on pockets of all sorts.
The area is very big and spread into many small sectors or Wande, as they call them.
It is definitely not like other big, popular areas. Whoever comes to Frankenjura should be ready to have a few days of adapting to the style. Myself I'm not strong in bouldering in any case so I settled with an ascent of Master Blaster, 10-/10 which translates to a French 8a+. Klemen, who has stayed here for two weeks, has racked up some nice ascents including some 'zehnte grade' -  a proper French 8b.

My short stay was awesome nonetheless. I got a taste of the area which makes me psyched to return and stay for longer. The place is full of history, the landscape is beautiful, and it's not as populated as some other crags, which gives it a bit of a mysterious feel... the amount of hard routes in the hidden crags scattered through the forest will keep you busy for a lifetime (unless you're Adam Ondra or Alex Megos... or Markus Bock). And when I will master the climbing here it will be a big improvement to my overall performance. The hard routes are just relentless, brutal pulling on bad pockets. The easy ones, though, often have some really nice rock and moves. And there's one more thing - there's no unnecessary bolts. Easy ground, even if the route is hard, will have only that much of protection to save you from decking. But it's just another thing you have to get used to.
me in Master Blaster, 10-/10 (8a+ in French grades)

Klemen got really close to this freakin' brutal grade 10 (8b) called Morlock Shocker... pure FJ style

the typical FJ scene

My summer trip is continuing in France. I am headed towards Briancon where the Coup de Monde is on tomorrow. It should   be a lot of fun, like always, and I'm really looking forward to meeting some of my friends. After that we're off for some hardcore climbing in the area with Jakob, Dominik and Anja. I'm psyched for a real rock climbing chapter :) the travelling so far has been awesome though - hitching, couchsurfing and all...I met a bunch of friendly people who were keen to help me out on the way. It's been a great learning experience - there's so many people out there who share a mutual experience and thinking. It's all about staying open and keeping a positive attitude - this can really get you anywhere :)

I'm excited about the forthcoming weeks and psyched for some hard ascents. Hopefully there will be a report on that soon, so stay
tuned. Thanks for reading people! Enjoy your holiday wherever you may be :) and once again thanks to Ema, Klemen and all the kind people I met along the journey :)

Friday, July 12, 2013

First ascent in Creta and kicking off the trip!

Hey everybody
The summer trip I'd been considering for a while has finally kicked off! Psyche is high for the unknown we're heading for. The first stop is Prague with Rok and Urban which happened very quickly. Two days before leaving we were discussing our plans for the summer. I'd bought a train ticket to Prague to meet my friend Luke here but after he couldn't come my friends from uni were keen to join me and make a little trip out. We're now enjoying the freedom of having a few days with no plans and going around Prague a little bit, exploring and meeting people. We're leaving on Sunday - my ultimate goal is somewhere in France or Spain where there's lots of rock :) It's been an intense year at uni and I can't imagine a more perfect laidback company than my two collegues to relax our minds :)

Before I left I've had a great one day trip to Creta where I took some of my friends to try climbing - it was a team of me, Luka, Anja and Boris. We enjoyed the cool temps and fresh air of Creta.
the crew

Boris trying out the Slovenian rock!

Luka climbing again for the first time after the accident! psyched :)

 I managed to do the first ascent of 100% BIO project, a route bolted by Rajko in the rightmost sector (Domacica). I tried it a few times the previous time up there, but it was now that I found a key hold and unlocked the sequence. It's all about the hard, bouldery section in the first part of the route which includes some poor pockets and pinches but no big moves. After the third bolt it eases off a little but you don't get any jugs right until the top, so I got totally pumped on the ascent.
I think it's quite my style, but seeing I didn't need that many tries and that there might be easier beta I think it deserves to be 8b. In my opinion the rock is not as nice as on La la land or in Pjes mater sector, but the moves in the starting bloc are pretty cool... Get on it people.

getting angry in the crux!

crimps all the way up...

I'm psyched to have done a first ascent :) it was pretty cool to climb something I remeber I once looked at and thought like there's not going to be any routes going up this part of the wall. I experienced a bit of that magic the pros get from making new routes :P in any case thanks to Rajko for bolting it and letting me climb it!

All in all it was a fun day that we rounded off nicely with a party for Luka's birthday. Shoutout to everybody who was there :)!
Thanks for reading people, I hope you're having a blast this summer whereever you may be! Enjoy it and remeber to play it safe!


Friday, July 5, 2013

Val di Mello -> Kotečnik -> ... ?

The bad news strike hard... it saddens me so deeply that Tito Traversa, a young Italian climbing prodigy has passed away after a climbing accident.  I have never got to meet him but I am sure he was a psyched kid that was about to become one of the idols we would look up to and get inspired by him. It's cruel and unfair. My condolences go out to his family.
Adam and Tito, the embodiment of climbing spirit and motivation

So much has been going on lately there's barely enough time to update the blog and I forget all the cool stuff that's happened. But I've had two memorable mini trips out climbing that were great. First was Val di Mello in Italy with kids from the home gym, and second was a three days visit to Kotečnik and Kanjon (just got back home) which is only an hour and a half of drive from my home, but it still felt like a real climbing trip as we were out camping and hanging with a good crew.

Val di Mello was amazing, I didn't know the area has so much quality climbing and the ambiance is so beautiful - I think it's actually the most beautiful and unspoilt place I've been to for climbing. The boulders are lying around on green grasses amidst huge granite walls on both sides with a stream running down in the middle... the classic fairytale-like picture :)
We've had great fun, I think all the kids enjoyed it, many personal bests were achieved, time flew by in a blink :) the weather was great, the climbing also (I also sent a few lines, bouldered up to 7b+ and did some classic 8a routes which were sadly all chipped  - so maybe it's especially worth going bouldering, while the hard routes are a little boring with all the handmade holds).
There were a few unfortunate moments (I burnt 5 litres of milk making breakfast -.-) but basically we all made it back in one piece which is what counts most. I borrowed a few pics from Aljaz, thanks a lot mate

literally the first thing you see when you get up in the morning

Luka in a 7b
me on an 8a

Right after we made it home from Italy, me and the most psyched two guys, Blaž and Domen, set off for a short trip to Kotečnik and Kanjon which was a real bang, too. It felt like a real trip as we were a great crew, very psyched and strong. They both sent their first 8a's which was a nice, memorable thing (breaking into the 'magic' number :D). I had an amazing mental battle on Umazana igra which is a beautiful, hard 8b+ that I was really happy about sending... thanks to Blaž for getting me psyched.

The ticklist was:
Umazana igra 8b+ (6th try)
Adrenalin 8b (flash - with beta by Anže - thanks mate ^^)
Impulz 8a+ (3rd try)
Graceland 8a+ (2nd try)
Guernica 8a (finally! after so many tries, hard climbing in Kotečnik is finally on :D!)

got close to onsighting Divja žena 8a+ and also Divji mož 8a - but I did get a big consolidation prize with other sends ^^

Guernica 8a
Divji mož 8a (second go I think)
Divji otrok 8a (also second go I believe)

Specialist za življenje 8a+ (almost flash! so damn close!)
Guernica 8a FLASH :)

Thanks to Izi for showing us around Kanjon today, everybody who came along, Eva for support and belaying on the second day...
I wonder what the next chapter will be... I know I'm leaving on a trip soon, but no actual plans were made yet... I will keep this place updated if anything exciting happens.

Sunday, June 23, 2013

Back to the climbing life

Hey all,
finally things eased off a bit and there's more time for climbing, socializing, doing things and updating this blog :) I finished my exams last week and have since been enjoying a little time off with no set plans or dates... and it feels amazing! But at the same time I must say that despite it may not look like it, this year at uni has been  great, a process that I'd enjoyed going through (at least the most of it :P) - it's a learning experience about myself, an opportunity to learn a great deal of invaluable (scientific) knowledge and getting to know a lot of like-minded people full of motivation and energy for fulfilling set plans...
The shift to the climbing life contrasts the uni life the most right in this aspect - I have found that the days of climbing and climbing trips that I'd enjoyed the most were those that happened the most randomly or spontaneus. I think it's the extra sense of adventure you get when you don't know what to expect that spicens things up. So right now it's a little hard getting back into this mood as I've kinda learned to try and make the most of my free time... as much as studying hard and havng the patience and determination to commit is regarded as an amazing ability by some, I think that knowing how to live life unstressed and keeping it fresh and spontaneus is just as amazing.

Anyway, I thougt I'd let you know what's up in the climbing world. We've mostly been climbing at Čreta lately which has stayed fresh despite the weather and our numerous visits... I forget all the ascents we've seen, but I remember a few of mine :) I managed the full pitch of Ledena doba which was first done by Rajko a few weeks ago, he gave it 8b+ and I believe this is accurate although it could be 8b/b+ mabye :P I finally did Joža Bon Joža, a very nice 7c+, and also a hard, short 8a called Spoštuj lokalce :)

I've last visited Čreta on wednesday with Miha and Lucija, who I've been coaching this year, and it was nice to see them enjoying the rock climbing. I got involved in the new project in Domačica called 100% BIO, it feels pretty hard and I'm not sure if I'll be the one to send it, but I'm definitely psyched to come back and try again.

Today I returned from a short two day trip to Štajerska where we climbed with Kruder, Izi, Hribar, Jarm, Zorko, Andro... I got to try the SICK 8c at Sopota called The secret and I'm very psyched to return and try it for some more... In the evening we had barbecue at Kruder's because him and Hribar are leaving for South Africa, Rocklands on Tuesday! Thanks to Kruder and a VENGA to both, I hope you crush!
Today I climbed in Kotečnik feeling a little heavy from the barbecue so I could only repeat Specialist za življenje, 8a+, a classic that I've left undone for too long. I ran out of time, power and psyche for harder stuff, but had a nice time anyway.

Another nice episode was two weeks ago when I took my collegues from the uni climbing! We stayed in Bohinj for the weekend for a much needed break from studying and staying inside all day long. I took them on a few 4's and 5's for a taste of climbing and some adrenaline :) in the evening we chilled, had barbecue and enjoyed the good time. I was happy to see them enjoy the climbing, too. Shoutout to all of you guys, Rok, Urban, Luka, Eva, Ana... and the weather too. Thanks to Ana for the pics!

the big man hanging loose :)

Urban getting pumped :D
what a great pic... Eva has got the moves  :)
me looking terrified on Raz rumenega slona, 7a+.... lol

So finally a shoutout to everyone who's been out lately, we're living this privileged life where you can get a total bang out of climbing a small piece of rock. Kinda funny, or pathetic, depends on how you look at it :)

Now I'm first off to Val di Mello on tuesday for a week of camping and climbing with the kids from the home gym... should be fun :) and then onwards to Spain sometime in July. Bring it on!

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

The late

 Word up everybody,
I finally got myself to writing a post over here! It's been quite some time that I've been really busy with uni (and also thinking a lot about it, so kinda less psyched for other stuff), but now that I'm halfway through my exams for this semester I can feel the psyche growing unstoppably, and I'd like to channel some of it to here. Above all it's the wish to get out & move the body, end up somewhere unpredicted and get un-stressed :) and do some hard climbing inbetween :P

I'm really looking forward to the coming months. A lot of hard climbing will go down, I hope to go on a few trips and also I feel quite in shape, if not else definitely stronger (but not fitter) as I'd ever been (thanks to the campus board :P).
I had a quick visit to Baratro last week (or was it before last week?) which was nice as I'd almost sent El musico, a hard 8b on my second go from the bottom (which amazed me since I couldn't do the start moves last year o.O). It was a cool day out with an unlikely made up group of me, Gregor Selak, Matej Sova, Jurij Ravnik (the author of the new Mišja Peč & Osp topo - much recommended :)!) and Jošt Žohar. Some tips and betas from the climbing legend and Baratro local Matej proved to be really nice, thanks a lot mate :)

high on El musico, so damn close (damn quickdraws!, got too pumped :)) thanks to Selak for the photo

 Another nice chapter has come to and end, the teams I've been coaching throughout the year at our gym have finished the training until autumn, and we did a small bouldering competition with one of them. I must say I've had a blast coaching all of them, I think we all enjoyed it :)


and there's some inspiring videos I MUST share with you in case you haven't seen them yet;
and amazing clip by my friends who were in Switzerland bouldering. The creativity is endless :)
 and the sick sick training video from Jan Hojer, he's amazingly strong and also a true climbing hero, psyched for this guy (he won a BWC in Innsbruck!)

Jan Hojer Training from Jan Hojer on Vimeo.

 On the other, non-climbing related hand (but equally important after all), after leaving my room after having revised for the last month, I've been opening my eyes to what's going on around me, taking some time talking to people (especially my granddad and grandma who always provide an endless list of interesting stories and eye-opening experiences), sucking up some information beyond the uni and climbing related stuff. There is so much going on right now in the world, big changes are about to happen and I hope for once a revolution will lead towards a better world for all, stopping the growing discrepancies between the rich and the poor, the growing amount of poverty, frustration and anger among the people (Slovenia included). I hope one day soon, I will find my way to parcticipate in the movement and join likewise minded individuals...

 Some insightful reading:

 Have a good one everybody, hope to see you soon out there! Can't wait actually! BOOM!

p.s. some good homegrown music that I find inspiring: