Thursday, February 14, 2013


Yesterday in Fontainebleau we realized the true meaning of low temperatures and the stickiness they bring... it was the first day of good weather after we had been confined to our gite for the last few days because of rain. We were well rested and psyched out of our minds. It was a bit difficult to start off in the morning as it was really quite cold, probably about 5 degrees.

I didn't feel too good on the warmup but when we got on the projects everything clicked; first we checked out Noir Desir, the 7c in Cuvier Rempart that we had all been pretty close to on our previous trips. It's amazing how your body memorizes the specific moves in a boulder problem, we all needed only one or two tries to re-learn the moves and then we just sent one after the other. I mean, we did probably get stronger since the last time but still, exactly knowing the moves and that you have done them before makes it a lot easier even though it's been more than a year since we climbed on this bloc.

Then me and Jakob went to work on Michel-Ange, a sick 7c revolving around a monster shoulder move. I though it would go better but I wasn't making a lot of progress even though it felt like it's very possible, and Jakob was about the same. Then Dominik came around and said he did Tristesse, one of the "big four" 7c's which got Jakob psyched on it too so he went and crushed it while me and Dominik went back to Bas Cuvier for some more hard stuff - he made quick work of La balance, the classic 7c on slopers on the Carnage bloc, which was amazing to watch. I finished off L'Abbe resina, despite falling off the top another few times but the perserverance paid off in the end. The conditions were amazing, I probably wouldn't have done if it wasn't for the amazing stickiness as I was pretty tired already.

The last bloc of the day was La gaule, a killer 7c compression prow which pretty much feels like hugging a big refrigerator. It was getting dark already and we finished the session with headlamps on while Dominik managed the ascent from the sit start to get the 7c mark and me and Jakob did the stand at 7a. I was doing some good links from the bottom and I'm sure I would have done it I got on it again.
Bas Cuvier was full of people yesterday and I met some friends which was also pretty cool, there's lots of strong people in Font right now. Unlike last week, this week has a good forecast... right when we're almost leaving home :( but the last three days of our stay should be bomber so stay tuned for some more hard stuff (hopefully :)). We also visited Paris but this was actually not all that exciting as we didn't do anything besides the classic sightseeing. Anyway, it's on for the last three days, always hope for the best :) stay strong people

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posing in paris Image Hosted by
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old school vs. new school Image Hosted by
a day ruined by rain - we did some cleaning for good karma and an ethical approach to our sport Image Hosted by
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me on and off 'Jet Set', a 7a dyno. My style... not Image Hosted by
Jakob on Noir Desir Image Hosted by
Dominik on Noir Desir Image Hosted by
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Matevz crushing the red circuit Image Hosted by
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Jakob in Michel-Ange and last but not least... Dominik CRUSHING the legendary Balance. RESPECT man!

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Bleau vol. 2

We woke up to snow covered fields today but luckily it's a rest day anyway. We've been grinding down the blocs really hard the last three days and it's time to give my arms a bit of a break. Despite the really bad forecast the last few days were as good as it can get. We were able to climb all the time and the conditions are actually really good... it's a bit cold when you start in the morning but after the warm up the cold makes it all STICK! This is what Bleausards call 'la collante'...

I was given the privilege to climb on some of the best lines of the forest (in my opinion); in Cuvier Rempart me and Dominik sent Le Big Boss, one of the famous "big four" of the area... although it fits my style perfectly, when I tried it on my first trip to Font I couldn't stick the crux move to the pocket over the lip. This time it went really quickly and I was well psyched ^^ At Rempart we also worked on the other famous lines and there might be some sendage when we go back... stay tuned

I also managed L'Angle Parfait, a 7b arete which to me embodies the climbing style of Bleau; a perfectly sculpted angle with hardly any features, proud looking, quite comitting at the top as well and a real test of perserverance and focus. Body tension and trusting the smears is the key... along with trying many times so your body learns the movements. Sadly I couldn't reclimb it for the video, but I was euphoric anyway...

We've managed to grab some footage and I will try to edit it into a short clip. Until then, a few bits... the quality is poor because of the wifi in macdonalds ^^

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Dominik defying the forces on L'Angle parfait, 7b Image Hosted by
Matevz in his first 7a+, Duroxomanie Image Hosted by
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Jakob on Beatle Juice 7a+ Image Hosted by
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chilling in progress

Thanks for reading people! Have a bomber weekend! Peace yo

Tuesday, February 5, 2013


Yo all
The trip is on! We've had two cool days in the forest doing some awesome blocs but today is the second day of rain and we're sitting it out in Macdonalds on their wifi. When the rain stops I think conditions will be perfect, we had a super sticky day on Sunday in Bas Cuvier, the temps are just right and Fontainebleau never disappoints with the amazing blocs. In Bas Cuvier Jakob and Dominik managed L'Abbe resina, the famous 7c and I got SUPER close so I think I will snatch it in the next days. Really psyched about that. Besides the hard stuff I've been really enjoying the "easier" ones, circuits, which you can either flash or do in a couple tries but they're often tricky. The abundance of rock makes you syked like crazy and you can just go around scrambling the boulders as if you were a little kid :D

The difficult thing is staying patient when the weather is bad. But the forcast looks like it's  slowly improving, also, we helped a lady who had skidded off the road to pull her car back on the road so this should be good karma :) in the meantime more pancakes will be eaten and more cards played.

We took some pictures and also video but the wifi in Mac is too poor to upload video, but we might make a little clip when we get back. Stay tuned! 

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me on L'abbe resina Image Hosted by
Jakob in La Baleine, 7a Image Hosted by