Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Siurana classics vol. 2

I'm sat in a cafe in Cornudella, my clothes still slightly wet and a slightly low morale. We'd  been rained out of El Pati for the second time. But I can't really complain - the solid dose of climbing I was lacking so much, I got it here in Siurana. I'd forgotten how amazing this place really is. It's simply one of the best places for climbing, up there on top along with the likes of Ceuse etc. Technical climbing on perfect crimps, different styles from endurance long routes to short and powerful, but always really aestethic and challenging.

Currently the scene here is a bit sleepy after the big crowds during the New year's time. Cornudella looks kind of desolate and there's not many people at the crags either. We have however had a fun time hanging out on the projects in El Pati together with Daniel Jung and Wiz Fineron and his friend Mel (?). Daniel is about to climb La Rambla, the most iconic climb of the area and one of the first 9a+'s in the world. The route is every climbers' dream, ascending a 40 meter overhanging rock face on what seems like perfect moves on perfect rock... go get it dude!!!
Wiz is the New Zealand dude climbing in Europe's best crags for the last half a year. We've been working on a project together and he has helped me a lot with his beta. Hopefully we will send soon :D!

The weather has not been that bad really - there was a lot of sun, it was only the strong wind that made it a little more difficult to climb. As long as one is psyched enough it's no problem though (even though you may slip off routes with numb fingers). I'd been enjoying the climbing big time, it just feels so awesome moving up, route after route of climbing I've never done before (finally some onsight climbing after a while!).

The first two days I've only been getting accustomed to climbing again. It's been a bit of a shock after having been locked inside studying the last month! I've sent a few nice routes, Pren nota, 8a, the brutal 8b in Can Piqui Pugui - Bou i Prou, and today an onsight of Marihuana, 8a. I've really enjoyed the sector Negociee - it has some amazing routes. I was really hopeful of a good try on Patinoso, 8c(+) after having worked it out nicely yesterday, but today just didn't feel right. Miha is climbing hard and steadily approaching his first 8a. Also, he lets me stay in his van, thanks buddy. It's really cosy and a good change from the usual dirtbag lifestyle. Except that taking a shower is still only a rest day luxury :P

We might move to another crag soon - I'm psyched for a new place after getting shut down in Siurana today. In any case, there is still LOTS of climbing to come and I am psyched out of my mind for it! Have a good time wherever you may be people, thanks for reading and remember to train hard even when the weather doesn't permit going outside. I can so feel the campus board training I did, the crimping in Siurana feels much better and I'm now happy that I've comitted to it :)


Miha on a 7a+ in Can Guiri

after sending Bou i Prou, 8b. The most brutal 8b of my life!


working Patinoso 8c

MILINA


on Negociee, 8b, one of the best lines ever. Came really close on 2nd go but haven't sent

gearing up

lovely Siurana 

yeaa man... screw the bad weather :)

Thursday, January 23, 2014

Catalunya is next!

I'm off to Spain tomorrow! I haven't been out on a trip for some time now and I'm craving for some serious rock climbing. What better option I could choose than Catalunya... It's gonna be a muerte!!
And hot too :D
I'm psyched out of my brain for some hard routes! I've been training a little more intensively over the last month to try and get in shape, mostly doing shorter routes and campus boarding for power as I think that's what I lack most. I had some good sessions going down at Poden with the local crew - Sašo, Fređo and the rest!

PODN SESSION from Luka frelih on Vimeo.

Also I'd been going to Plezalni center Ljubljana to do some coaching, routesetting and training. The place really caught on in the climbing public, there's lots of visitors and there's a always a good vibe that makes you feel welcome. I'd mainly been doing laps on some routes but found out the bouldering wall is nice for a few sessions too (there's some nice problems put up :D), so me and my roomie Boris had a few cool sessions that felt really good. Plus a campus board should be set up soon, can't wait :D!

I'm so curious to see how rock will feel after a while! The last month was a really challenging period, I dedicated my time to studying and luckily I was able to finish pretty much all the exams for this semester. I'm psyched and relieved at the same time to see it worked out.
I have, however had a day out and it was a real highlight, in fact one of the highlights of the whole year 2013 :) on December 31st we headed down to Mišja Peč and I managed to send Karizma, 8b+ (falsely claimed a month ago :D) and topped it off with a shot of Tekila, 8a. Karizma is one badass line and I was psyched to have it come together as it really is a majestic piece of climbing. What a nice way to finish the year... I was buzzing high with psyche for days after!
high off the deck in Karizma, 8b+, pic by Štefan W.
I'm armed with some brand new shoes for my Spain trip, thanks Iglu šport!

I'm excited what year 2014 brings for me in climbing! It takes off tomorrow... VENGAAAA!!!!!!!